When I look back on my Cambodia trip… I can’t help but think about the moment at the small coffee hut near Angkor Wat that I stopped before the sunrise to have some intense Cambodian coffee.
The taste of coffee was so bold it burnt my mind. Even more intense was the old television set on the counter that was showing bootleg VCD of Cambodian pop singers dressed up in ridiculously gaudy outfit and creating massive dance party on stage. Quality of video was questionable but audience was totally digging the music.
So loud and so crazy I thought the amps built inside the old tube television would blow up. Easily one of the most disturbingly powerful musical and visual experiences ever occurred to me before 6am in the morning. I’m telling you, it was like accidentally being at someone’s DIY dance party in North Hollywood…except it’s far superior.
This experience made obvious that music and dance play major role in Cambodian culture (I also ran into similar madness party at Cambodian New Year ceremony in Oakland months later).
I must admit it though, I have special affinity to Cambodian pop music so this whole experience to me was 10x more awesome than common travelers would ever afford to appreciate.
Old Asian pop music, particularly of Cambodia, is very interesting thing to listen to. Growing up in Japan, I listened my grandma humming old Japanese pop songs as she prepares dinner every night. So 歌謡曲 Kayoukyoku (Japanese oldies pop) or anything that shares roots to that type of music is no stranger to me.
Cambodian underground music is a strange mixture of good old Asian pop songs with hook of lo-fi garage sounds. It’s wildly original.
Funny thing is, Cambodian pop music shares the similar roots to Japanese pops (not to be mixed up with contemporary J-pop) that burst on my irresistible nostalgia.
If you use Spotify here’s some recommended listen:
I’d like to call this the epic compilation album that walks on the fine line between cheeky Asian pops and 60s psychedelic rock with the likes of The Velvet Underground and Os Mutantes.
Is your speaker/headphones turned up? Good. Now, let’s start on this chapter about Phnom Penh a.k.a. Pearl of Asia!
Phnom Penh Streets
After about 5 hours of rough mini van ride from Siem Reap I have reached the east end of the country’s capitol, Phnom Penh.
The city spreads along the great Tonlé Sap Lake.
Phnom Penh is also known by its elegant name “Pearl of Asia”.
I have yet to visit New Orleans and other cities in the US built with French influence, but I bet Phnom Penh can be counted as one of the legitimate examples of that in South East Asia.
I mean… golden dragon in the middle of park… how cool is this?
Bookstore with used books donated by travelers that passed by.
Once again, here in Phnom Penh I was quite lucky to meet another nice fellow on the road. Philipp the traveling German chef from Australia poses with his on-the-go backpacking gears: backpack with rainproof, point and shoot camera, GoPro, and pair of sunglasses:
Although general part of Siem Reap was quite safe and there was no obvious threat of pickpocket attacks, I was warned by many locals in Siem Reap about Phnom Penh’s infamy as pickpocket paradise.
Be sure to wear waist-pockets to keep all your valuables tucked away from thieves’ sight. Alternatively, keeping the backpack sealed just like how Philipp is doing in above picture can also reduce the risk of getting your items snatched.
Most art and culture of this beautiful country was destroyed in 1975 as atrocity of Khmer Rouge led by Pol Pot wiped away majority of artist and intellectual population from the country.
Cambodia as country has been stuck in unstable political state as depicted by Roland Joffe’s The Killing Fields. Most part of real Killing Fields still remains the way it was and whispers the country’s dreadful past. Killing Field is must visit destination for anyone traveling to Cambodia.
All of this is another reason why music and art in Cambodia are quite precious and something that need to be cherished. Pieces of work that thrive today are indeed legacy salvaged from the ashes.
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The Killing Fields
One definitely interesting thing about Cambodia when compared to Thailand is its road rules and languages.
In Cambodia cars drive on the right side of the road as oppose to left as it is in Thailand. The primary language aside from native Khmer tongue is French and not English. These differences actually threw me off a little bit at first but thankfully I learned quick enough not to run into on-coming traffic by mistake.
Our tuk-tuk driver for a day. He spoke Khmer and French.
People watching from tuk-tuk.
Streets of Phnom Penh.
Independence Monument in Phnom Penh.
Monks outside of Royal Palace.
Smiles of people in Cambodia was like grains of gold panned out from riverbeds. It was very honest and pure. One of my favorite moments from this trip was people watch as we walked through random streets and enjoyed night markets. Of course, sometimes these smiles make it very difficult to refuse the striking deals at Russian Market.
Sunday Morning Russian Market Run
Phnom Penh is full of energy and there is never a dull moment.
It can get quite intense just like the music, and I suppose this excitement is the main appeal to many backpackers who reach this exotic destination.
Food options are infinite in Phnom Penh and there are pretty much any type of cuisine you can think of. If you are more inclined to traditional dishes definitely try Amok (fish curry), or if you are open to anything go try Indian dosa near Independence Monument.
I also went to interesting Cambodian-style pizzeria that served pretty mediocre pizzas but had automatic door entrance which was the only one I’ve seen in Cambodia.
Even the Burger King at the airport tastes majestic! Quality of beef they use in Asia is so much better than the US.
Pearl of Asia is intense place to visit, and incomparable to almost any other places inside/outside of Cambodia.
Photographs from Banteay Srei Temple (Woman’s Temple)
Photographs from Koh Ker Temple
Photographs from Beng Mealea and vicinity.
Photographs from Kulen Mountain
Photographs from Ban-san’s friendship feast in his backyard.
