It was two days before New Year’s Eve. Recounting the past ten days spent in the island nations of Singapore and Malaysia, it had been the perfect conclusion to the year. 2019 was a year filled with many travels, meetings of friends and family, and shared celebration of all of the good fortune that surrounded us. As I started to organize my luggage in preparation for our flight back to the states, I decided to do something that I always do on the final day of travel. Rereading my journals and visiting the last remaining points of interest that had been reserved for the tail-end of our journey.
The Jewel
Just like a pearly necklace sparkling with a blinding shimmering light, the Jewel of Changi Airport surprised us with its grandiose scale. Jewel is a shopping center built inside the airport that houses a rainforest and impressive waterfall vortex simulating an oasis in the depth of a forbidden island. Jewel was quintessentially Singaporean with its impeccable presentation of reputable shops and eye-catching attractions. When Becca and I visited the skywalk bridge, we had no questions about why it had become a quintessential part of the Singaporean experience.
We saved Jewel for our last destination because we lodged at a hotel nearby for the last day in Singapore and it was relatively easy to squeeze into the action-packed schedule on our way back from Penang. After exploring and having lunch at Jewel, we took a taxi to check in to the hotel. Becca and I then ventured out to Chinatown for our last souvenir shopping.
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It was Sunday afternoon but we must have missed the rush hour of visitors as Chinatown was calm in its temperament. Strolling around the vibrant neighborhood felt relaxing under the somber grey sky. Markets and vendors all seemed to enjoy the slower pace of a sleepy weekend before a rainstorm that will inevitably tuck them under their canopies. Becca and I were on the search for sambal (Indonesian chili paste) and kaya (coconut jelly) to take back home. On our walk we drifted along the mood of the weekend’s end that had perfectly synchronized with the sentiment of the ending trip.
Watching the rain clouds from Five Oars Coffee Roasters on Tanjong Pagar Road
After bidding farewell to Chinatown, we stopped at Five Oars Coffee Roasters on Tanjong Pagar Road for a cup of coffee before heading back to Changi. We sipped on a coffee and nibbled on a chocolate treat as we reminisced about all of the places we had visited. Our trip to Singapore and Malaysia was something like a fresh stroke of a brush on an empty canvas, and we did not expect it to be such an amazing experience at the end. From the night stroll around Chinatown to the mystical rainforests gallery in Penang, we made some of the most unforgettable memories in great company. If my tired legs had been the result of the many miles of earth we had walked across in this previously unknown part of the world, each ache was not only worth it but well-deserved.
Thank you Singapore and Malaysia for treating us well. And… thanks to you, the readers, for sticking around with us on this special journey. Hope you stay well and that we see each other again very soon!
Nature surrounds us all. Near and far. No matter where your travel may take you, we are never too distant from the prehistoric gardens that stretch their roots deep within the earth. In traveling further west from George Town, we gradually started to see new scenery doused in deep green rain forest.
Art & Garden in Teluk Bahang invited us into a mystical art gallery with walls of deep, lush forest garden and the sky as our ceiling. This beautifully curated garden showcased the coexistence of nature and manmade artworks. It is designed to enable visitors to enjoy the pretty flowers and creative blossoms of art in one easy stroll. It was especially impressive that each artwork blended into the background of open nature and left an impression of having entered some world not so distant from one of Monet’s oil paintings.
In order to enjoy Art & Garden fully, it is recommended to take a moderate hike on the established trail that navigates visitors through the canopies of flowers and fish ponds accompanied by whimsical art pieces that venture from pure aesthetics to political theory. One of the most impressive pieces to see was a series of individual opaque glass works painted in delicate patterns of flowers. The garden is quite large and it does require some strength to reach the summit for breathtaking views of jungles below. After catching our breath at the viewpoint, we strolled down to the gift shop before making our way to the restaurant in Kampung Nelayan.
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We stopped at Tai Tong Seafood Restaurant in Kampung Nelayan and enjoyed lunch with our friend’s families. I was struck with unsettling waves of stomach ache throughout the day, and it was unfortunately not the best meal experience during our stay in Penang. Nonetheless, I had a good time exploring the tiny village that exhibited the lifestyle of the rural side of Penang. Kampung Nelayan had a sense of remoteness from the city that was fresh and interesting.
Returning to George Town, we decided to take things easy and relaxed at the apartment for the rest of the afternoon. In the evening, I went to Chulia Street Night Hawker Stalls to experience the last street food excursion in this UNESCO historic site. My final hunt for the hawker stall was a famous curry mee noodle soup that made Chulia Street known to the world of foodies.
Chulia Street comes alive at night.Penang’s famous Curry Mee — Malaysian noodle soup.
Curry mee is a signature Malaysian noodle soup consisting of a generous amount of seafood and curry broth. The curry mee stall on Chulia Street was extremely hectic and I was lucky to receive the last remaining bowl before the stall closed for the night. Chulia Street Night Hawker Stalls was clearly the top tourist destination in Penang, and it was chaotic with little to no foot space between passing people. Riding the wave of accelerating appetite, I joined another long queue to get my fill on Char Kaoy Teow!
Char kaoy teow stall on Chulia Street.
Char Kaoy Teow is a Malaysian stir fried noodle cooked with prawns and shellfish and perfected with a gentle coat of chicken and duck eggs. You can smell the irresistibly delicious sizzles of fried seafood from blocks away. The stall was set up on a long rectangular table with two workers, one person manning the wok and the other person handling the register and replenishing the kitchen supplies. It was quite entertaining to watch two workers vigorously fulfilling the long list of orders in harmonious tempo.
This was the final night in Penang. The following morning we were due to fly back to Singapore for one last day in Southeast Asia.
Thank you for following our stories. Please stay with us for the epilogue to this epic adventure!
Waking up with the sun became routine during my latest trip. Each morning, I wiggled my way out from a double king sized bed that faced the ocean and saw a glimpse of amber and crimson light ascending over the Penang skyline. It was a new day in paradise.
The first sight of the day in Penang. George Town bathed in morning light.
Each morning I would hurriedly throw on some clothes, grab my camera and head out the door – careful not to wake the peaceful dreams of my roommates. When I got to the elevator hall, I saw the spire of a golden pavilion beneath the high rise apartments and immediately decided to make it as the first destination. My first morning stroll around the neighborhood offered an introductory glimpse of the numerous buddhist temples situated throughout George Town.
A few steps from the apartment, I found myself exploring the little corners of Thai and Burmese buddhist temples shimmering in gold. It was still early in the morning and there was no one besides myself, a few monks sweeping the streets along and a few street vendors setting up their tents, getting ready for the day’s business. It was a peaceful and meditative experience to explore vacant buddhist temples and admire their quiet gardens.
When I returned to the apartment, Becca and Michelle were awake and sitting in the sunlit living room. We made cups of coffee and enjoyed the birdseye view of George Town expanding outside the windows. It seemed nearly impossible to escape from the comfort of lounge chairs and the gentle caress of sunshine in order to plan the day’s activity but, eventually, our friends Kea and David invited us to join for lunch at Nasi Kandar restaurant just a few blocks away from the apartment.
If I were only able to choose one dish to write home about it would be Nasi Kandar: a Penang originated Malaysian curry dish that we had at Restoran Mohammed Raffee Nasi Kandar. Nasi Kandar is like a distant cousin to Indian curry, somewhat familiar yet not formally acquainted. This delectable northern Malay dish was incredibly savory and full of intricate spice notes. None of the spices overpowered the other’s flavor and there was a perfect balance and harmony in the combinations of different curries; this made it a pristine culinary experience.
The ordering system was quite simple. We queued and picked the main proteins and vegetables along with extra add-ons such as fish head and fried eggs. Then the chef poured large ladles full of curry gravies over the plate to complete the dish. I picked chicken and fish head as my main proteins and asked to garnish the plate with as many varieties of side vegetables as possible. Of course, I had to add a fish head and fried eggs as well. No holding back!
After we filled our stomachs with incredibly delicious nasi kandar (that I will dream about every single day from here on), we hailed some taxis to the art district of George Town where our friends’ uncle (i.e., an older friend) runs his workshop and a gallery. It was a quick few minutes drive to reach the main art street of Lebuh Armenian where we strolled down a narrow historical street. There were many iconic art installations including the works of Ernest Zacharevic.
Shop Howard was located in the center of the art district surrounded by many iconic street arts and quintessential Penang scenery complete with the pedicab stalls. We entered the shop and were greeted by Howard, who photographs and publishes photo collections highlighting everyday life in Penang. He guided us to a satellite gallery established inside an old Peranakan style house. Here are some shots from the excursion.
The art district in George Town showcases an interesting amalgamation of the old Penang lifestyle and a young creative energy. This neighborhood is surrounded by many buildings that are getting on in their years, one could say ancient, yet enlivened by inciting and inspirational street art and a feeling of true, uninhibited culture. It was very interesting to see modern cafes and boutique shops operating next to old storage and office spaces – like bright young children walking joyfully, hand-in-hand with their grandparents. The state of this amalgamation revealed the contrast of economic evolutions that Penang is going through today.
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China House was a fantastic stop for a coffee break and to treat ourselves with tasty cakes. This traditional compound, made of three heritage houses, has transformed into an international tea house for locals and travelers to rest their weary wings. In this long, narrow and busy cafe people gather for quality conversation over sweet treats and kopi (Malay for coffee). In the back of the cafe there is a quaint outdoor space where we found the perfect table to enjoy the passing time. We tried the cafe’s popular cheesecake, pound cake, and chocolate cake and washed them down with a few cups of latte. After the coffee break, we continued our adventure through the art district.
“Boy on Motorbike” by Ernest Zacharevic
We strolled down Lebuh Ah Quee and admired the multi-medium mural work by Ernest Zacharevic including his famous “Boy on Motorbike.” We made a turn to cut through the Little India of Penang and detoured back to Uncle Howard’s shop. Along the way, we had a quick glimpse of a day in the life of Penang.
George Town is also an exciting place for nightlife. There are some great options for regional fancy drinks. In the evening, Becca and I ventured out to meet our friends at Good Friends Club next to Hin Bus Depot, a famous art center for Sunday flea market and industrial art installations. We started the evening at Good Friends Club and eventually found our way through the backdoor to the speakeasy bar. Backdoor Bodega is Penang’s best kept secret (hopefully I won’t be banned from re-entry after sharing this). Whether by friend’s invitation or a pure happenstance, if you ever find your way, you will be pleased to find yourself there.
Good Friends Bar motto: “Good friends never bojio.” Bojio means not invite.Good Friends Bar stands next to Hin Bus Depot. You can wander outside the bar to see the murals on the industrial buildings.
Backdoor Bodega is a dimly lit cocktail bar in the back of an apparel store that serves many varieties of original Penang cocktails. One of the most unique flavors that I tasted was Lao Hao Peng made with a nutmeg cordial that was tangy, aromatic, and for lack of a better word: adventurous. The evening at Backdoor Bodega was a wonderful time spent with friends both old and new. The bar also had open access to the apparel store where we played foosball and had a good chat with newly made friends that are also regular customers of the bar.
Backdoor Bodega is a speakeasy bar in the back of apparel store.
Thank you for reading this blog post. Hope you enjoyed it!
In the next post, we will take our journey to the western region of Penang Island -flourishing with vegetation and an art gallery in nature. Please stay tuned.
