What is this? Mysterious building in the middle of Highway 1

There is an abandoned building in the middle of highway 1
between Pacifica and Half Moon Bay.

devils slide map

If you are driving Southward from San Francisco, keep your eyes out to the right hand side after the long tunnel that runs through misty Pacifica hills.
The building stands on top of rock in the middle of coastal stretch isolated from everything else. Looks at this:

001_Structure and wanderers

At first sight I just couldn’t figure out (a) What the hell this is (b) how the hell it stands on the rock like that and (c) what am I waiting for and not swerving my car to check this place out IMMEDIATELY!

There was no hint to tell the story of this building except for rocks and overgrown vegetation around it. I spotted few trekkers snapping pictures, but otherwise it was just a quiet abandoned area tucked away from busy coastal highway.

A graffiti tag “At Least I Tried” was screaming out loud on the side of building facing towards the highway and the “eye” to keep the secrecy from Pacific Ocean:

005_eye

I climbed on the ledge of this mysterious ruin and explored the interior. The inside of building was tagged with graffiti and messages addressed to no one:

008_Empire

Later on, I did some research and learned this place is called “Devil’s Slide Coastal Trail”:

006_Monumental Rocks

Wait a minute… trail?
That means there’s a stretch of hiking trail along this beautiful coast?

Yep, sounds like there is.
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Look at this amazing vista!
The trail is right by the ocean and mildly veiled by mountain mists:

012_Bay

I did handful of hiking around the Southern side of Bay Area,
but shamefully I was never aware such beautiful trail existed! Another place to add on my hiking map!

The building, was originally built as U.S. military triangulation station and observation site used during WWII to defend San Francisco Bay.
It has been since destroyed by storms and land slides and left completely abandoned.
Strange “eye” on the side was a remnant of cannon hole.

009_Red Platters

After years of exposure to harsh bay weather and slumber in oblivion, the area around the building was naturally overtaken by nature’s power:

007_Growth

This epic remnant of history on the Devil’s Slide Coastal Trail is now standing alone as travelers and wanderers’ canvas that exhibits itself as new artform on the edge of Pacific coast:

011_GREATFULL

If you have a chance to visit Bay Area, I highly recommend making a stop at this wonder of forgotten time:

forgotten fortress

 

Welcome to Chiang Mai: No need of Google maps. Let’s do it local way!

What kind of adventure are you looking to partake during your limited time of traveling?

For my one week in Thailand and another one week in Cambodia, I had “loose” outline of how I want my travel to be shaped up; so all I really needed was just accommodation for first night at the popular destination and few flights from point A to point B. That’s it.
There was not much time in hand, but small preparation has switched my mind to auto-pilot mode and enabled me on flexible traveling.

My next travel destination followed by 3 days in Southern islands was Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand.
After spending about 3 hours of oversea/land travel from Koh Phangan back to Surat Thani Airport, I caught another AirAsia flight back to Bangkok and transferred the flight from there to Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai is old city with many cultural and historical backgrounds.
This beautiful city in the North holds some of Thailand’s top attractions: Rich concentration of country’s oldest temples (Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, Wat Chiang Man), unique culinary experiences (Khao soi) as well as great jungle hike trails and elephant farms!
As you can see, there’s infinite awesome options to explore here.

Before we parted our ways at Surat Thani, Jon, one of our travel mates wrote me a note on the back of Lonely Planet’s “Thai for Beginner”. He scribbled down few words in Thai along with words ‘crispy noodle curry’ and told me it is our mission to taste Chiang Mai’s most important delicacy: Khao Soi.

So that’s exactly what we did upon our arrival to Chiang Mai that night.
My friend Ross and I wandered around the night streets searching for Khao Soi to calm our ever growing hunger and loudly growling stomach.

The problem was – Neither of us knew what Khao Soi looks like, and of course we had no Thai language ability to back us up (or ไม่พูดไทย “mai poot tai”). So what we thought to be easy walk to grab a dinner actually became one hell of adventure!

Luckily, turns out people in Chiang Mai are very friendly and AMAZINGLY sincere.
Soon we stumbled upon small gathering of local college students at noodle stand and started to roll a conversation with minimal set of Thai vocabularies that I have picked up from aforementioned “Thai for Beginner” book. Everyone was so welcoming and also humble to study English language – this helped us greatly in “getting the point across”. Instantaneously, we started a small language-exchange session.

One thing that all travelers must not fear to remember is that:
People will try to understand you if you try to speak their language, so don’t fear to approach people just because of seemingly enormous language barrier!

Believe me. English is more prevalent language in the world than ever was.
Even if all else fails, hand gesture works all the time!
Don’t be shy and miss out on chances to have great conversation with locals!

I want to give you a simple tip:
When you ask for direction, ask for nearest landmarks or something that is recognizable to use in navigation.
Bridge and train station near your destination are generally more familiar for locals to understand what you are talking about.
Look out for post office or main streets that are close to your destination. Drawing the picture of landmark on piece of paper can help this process as well. Asking for direction to specific address to restaurant or tour company will be much difficult to communicate without comfortable language skills.

Also, many tuk-tuk (3-wheeler) and taxi drivers can speak English in most tourist busy destinations so rest assured you will less likely to experience that much difficulty in transportation from one location to the other.

After 10-15 minutes of charades, our attempt to ask for direction to restaurant (that serves mysterious Khao Soi) started to bear a fruit. One of the girls in the group pointed to the opposite direction of the street we came from and gave us simple direction like turn left on the big street and such – like what I have mentioned above, it is always good idea to ask for landmarks that is recognizable in case you get completely lost.
7-11 was very common and obvious landmark for us in this case; with its vivid green and orange signs there is virtually no way of missing the turn. So we thanked the college kids and went on our way.

Another exciting thing about traveling is that any wrong turns can only take you to somewhere new and interesting.

Ok, I will admit. We got lost. Like completely lost. We sucked really bad at following the first direction and forgot where to go from the 7-11!

We could just give up at this point, but instead, we decided to speak with other locals and continue on our hunt for Khao Soi.
Over the course of an hour we spoke with many people – girl working at cellphone store who wanted to go to US to study, Japanese man working at izakaya karaoke restaurant, and few random pedestrians who did/did not speak English.

Everyone was extremely nice and friendly, so even though we could not find Khao Soi that night we had pretty good time talking to locals and seeing different faces of the city.
At the end of the night we stumbled upon a small food stand that served quite possibly the best pad-Thai ever.
So there you go – spontaneity wins at last!

Once the loose framework of traveling is set, you are on the flow.
The flow will take you on a wonderful ride to new experiences.
This is exactly how I approached to improvise my travel itinerary.

I stayed in Chiang Mai for total of 3 nights, of which the first and the last day are spent mostly on traveling to-from Chiang Mai.
Day 2 and Day 3 are left completely open and I had not booked any tour in advance for those two days.

When you stay at hostels or guest houses, there will be many chances to connect with other travelers and/or will be exposed to various adventure options. So booking the expensive tour in advance will only hampers you from flexible decision making.
For all 3 nights in Chiang Mai, I have booked the room with Spicythai Backpackers Hostel not too far from city central (only 200m from the old city) and received recommendation on awesome 2 days trekking tour right at the door!

Spicythai Backpackers was very nice hostel and I would highly recommend it to anyone intending to stay in Chiang Mai for short term or long term. The offered tour involved intensive day hike in the country side of Chiang Mai and staying at the lodge in the middle of Hmong hill tribe, and also an elephant ride and bamboo rafting!
Many activities are spread across two days and included all transportation, food, and accommodation.
The tour price was around 3800 baht which converts to $118.
It is actually much easier and sometimes cheaper to book tours through local tour company or front desks.

In this post, I will include some snapshots from the 2 days adventure in Chiang Mai guided by very talented bamboo craft maker, Maxi, from Chiang Rai. I just cannot thank him enough for his great sense of humor and pure hospitality to show us around the most beautiful landscapes that I have ever seen in my life!

These photos are taken with Kodak Ektar 100, Ilford PAN F (expired), and Expired Agfa slide (cross-processed).
I especially like the result of large format B&W film!

Hope you enjoy:


(Kodak Ektar 100)
Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHChiang Mai adventure started at the local market.
Here you see various kind of fruit drinks in colorful cylinder.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHMatthieu and Armandine getting coconut pancakes.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHCow and her child in the middle of remote village in Chiang Mai.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHDomestic scene in the village.
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Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHRoss standing in front of old house in the rural side of Chiang Mai.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHHis day starts from here. Every day.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHAbout 1hr ride on pickup truck, we stopped at remote village in Chiang Mai and ate pad-thai for lunch. This is my friend Shuki (on right) buying a can of coca-cola from the lady that works at the food stop.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHAfter lunch, our tour guide Maxi took us through moderate jungle hike into Hmong tribe in the shade of hilly landscapes. My Hmong friend passionately explained to me his love for Japanese motorbike!
Well maintained, isn’t it?

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHMeet our tour guide Maxi.
He is comedian, bamboo craft maker, and machete warrior from Chiang Rai.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHThis is how most of the hiking trail looked like. Doesn’t look too hard of a hike, eh?

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHThis breathtaking view was waiting at the exit of bamboo forest.

 

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHWe can kind of see Hmong tribe in the distance. That is the direction we’re heading to.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHTaking a short break.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHMachete warrior Maxi cut us some fresh papaya from the tree. What an awesome guy.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHWe walk passed cabbage field maintained by Hmong tribe people.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbHMaxi and some baskets of cabbage in the middle of field. We are really getting close to the Hmong hill tribe lodge.

 (ILFORD PAN F)
017_The weaver
Young Hmong man crafting basket with bamboo fibers.

018_abstract field
Arriving Hmong hill tribe.

019_PowerThis is a view from the highest hill at our lodge area in twilight hour.

020_Chiang Mai fieldNext morning. A break of dawn at Hmong hill tribe.

021_chilling dogThis dog was extremely friendly and loved our company. He even followed us on the hike to the jungle (well, he eventually got hungry and turned back home)! His human lives in the Hmong tribe.

022_Tribe familyThe lodge was maintained by Hmong families. They are making some sort of seating platform with the wood pieces.

023_Tribe family 2

 

024_RoosterThis guy. Screeched away the morning like Skrillex.

025_HandcraftDay 2: another great weather.

026_Mother and sonHmong mother and her baby.

027_ShukiMorning hours in hill tribe lodge was so slow and relaxed.
Here’s Shuki pondering on his Thailand journey so far.

028_Lodge siteThis is the small garden in our hill tribe lodge (opposite view from above)

029_A hut in the middle of cabbage fieldAll packed and ready to go.
We slowly walked down the hills and passed this amazing looking hut.

030_Harvest seasonHarvest season was on! Cabbage. Cabbage. Cabbage!

031_Women in Chiang MaiHmong ladies harvesting cabbages.

(AGFA Chrome CT Precisa Color Slide – Cross-processed)032_Maxi the bamboo craft makerMaxi crafting water cup out of bamboo.

033_Old PioneerLunch break at local restaurant. This is fully functional old school Pioneer karaoke machine.

034_Elephant and boyA boy and elephants.

035_Helmets for raftingHelmets for bamboo rafting.

036_KHAO SOI…and FINALLY! We found Khao Soi!
This is what ‘crispy noodle curry’ looks like. Delicious stuff!

Thank you for reading my post!
I hope these photos and captions showed you how awesome Chiang Mai is! It was definitely my #1 favorite place to visit in Thailand.
If this story somehow inspired you to visit, please feel free to leave a comment with any questions and I would love to share more detail and recommendation with you 🙂

In next posting, I will share the second half story of Chiang Mai travel as well as over night travel to the old Thai capital: Ayutthaya!

 

How to cook easy, savory, and healthy miso soup at home

( MISO SOUP IS THE KEY IN JAPANESE CUISINE )

Misoshiru a.k.a. miso soup is essential delicacy of Japanese home.
It has a long history, perhaps waaaay longer than best known Japanese cuisine — sushi. A taste of misoshiru varies between regions and its recipe has been carried over generation after generation.

A type of miso paste can also vary between regions: some part of Japan uses what is known as white miso while the other region uses much thicker and bolder koji miso or aka miso (red miso); in colder regions it is common to see heavy load of cabbages while in mountainous regions people love to use rich amount of mushrooms and other root vegetables that come from the mountains.

You see, misoshiru is lot more than just a warm salty soup with pieces of tofu and tiny seaweeds floating over it; it’s a reflection of rich Japanese food culture and the representation of family tradition.

Although I have been away from home cooked misoshiru for about 10 years, I’ve kept some recipes from my mother and continue to craft my own misoshiru using the local ingredients in places that I live. Here’s the quick and easy recipe for the best misoshiru you will ever have:

<<Step by step recipe for Miso Soup>>

(2 servings)

  1. Mince vegetables of your choice. I normally go with carrot (1), yellow onions (1/4 cut) OR scallions (2 roots), firm tofu (1/3 block — firmer the better!), and 3-pieces of organic maitake mushrooms. Miso works great with root vegetables so burdock, daikon radish, cabbage would be great to add as well. Make sure veggies are minced to smaller pieces so they cook quickly.
  2. Add 2 cups of water to the pot and sprinkle in 1-tbsp powdered “dashi” broth you can find at local Asian supermarket. I would recommend using vegetarian broth (deriving from sea kelp). Add vegetables from step.1.
  3. Ignite the stove to medium fire and cook very slowly. Do not let the water boil too much — that will let all the goodness escape with the steam!

    miso1
    Put all the vegetables and tofu before starting the fire.
  4. Once all the ingredients are thoroughly cooked and softened, stop the fire and add one big table spoon amount of miso paste to the pot. You might want to use the miso paste that does not contain any food-additive like MSG. Get the one with the word 無添加 (additive-free) on the label like the picture below.

    miso sample
    The word 無添加 means additive-free. Free is good, always good.
  5. Add 1-tablespoon of dried wakame seaweed and let it sit for
    about 1-minute to let them flower.
  6. Serve in nice Japanese bowl and chop sticks.
    Enjoy with white or brown rice.
miso end
Tadaa!

The juice that boils out from maitake mushroom acts as organic “dashi” extract and brings up umami (savory) essence from each vegetables that you thrown into a pot.

It’s very soothing and savory way to conclude your long day at work.

Give it a shot!


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毎晩作ってる味噌汁について。

日本の家庭料理でやっぱり欠かせないのは味噌汁です。
アメリカンの感覚で言う日本食っていうと寿司なんですが、味噌汁こそが日本家庭の食卓になくてはならない、準主役的な存在だと僕は思っています。
アメリカでの一人生活も8年になりますが、あたたかいご飯と味噌汁は僕の食卓にもお約束事のように必ず登場します。ロンドンに住んでいた時も作りました。豆腐固くてまずかったけど!w

日本人のアイデンティティーとか、日本が世界に誇る遺産とか、大げさな言葉を使って世界に讃えたくなるのが、このシンプルながらもなかなか奥の深い味噌汁というヤツなのです。
日本人の感覚でいうおふくろの味とはまさしくこの味噌汁のことであり、海外で生活する日本人であれば必ず感じるであろう「郷愁の念」は漆塗りの椀の中の味噌汁に浮かんでくるものです。

僕も2006年に初めて一人で家を出て訪れたボストンの街での学生当時は料理なんてほとんどしたことがなかったのですが、行きつけていた市内唯一の日系のスーパーで初めて購入したのが味噌汁を作るためのマルコメ味噌とふえるわかめであったことを今でも思い出します。
もともと料理なんて全然できなかったへなちょこ学生の僕でしたが、さすがに8年も失敗を繰り返しているとある程度のスキルを身につけてくるものなんですね。
海外に住んでいると和食の無い生活形態に慣れてしまうものですが、栄養摂取のバランスとか、味の深みとか、やっぱり日本の家庭料理は世界一だな、と感じます。

作り方も色々ある味噌汁ですが、
僕が最近はまっているのは、舞茸のだしをベースにした味噌汁。
至ってシンプルですが、水加減と入れる具材のバランスだけでかなり深い味を出すことができるんですね。舞茸って本当にすごいです。味噌はだし入りのものだと化学調味料が入っているものがほとんどなので、Noだしのものを使用しましょう。
別途で粉末のだしも使うと舞茸のエッセンスとうまく調和していい香りが立ちます。

では農家で購入した有機栽培の舞茸を使用した簡単な味噌汁のレシピを紹介します。

<<誰でも簡単!味噌汁のレシピ>>

(2人前)
一.具材を切る。基本は青ネギ 2束 or タマネギ 1/4個人参 1本豆腐 1/3丁舞茸 3摘みを細切りにする感じですが、大根があれば大根もかなりおすすめです。

二. 鍋に450cc程水を入れ市販の植物性だし小さじ一加えて具材を全て鍋に投入して着火。弱火〜中火で水が沸騰しない程度に具をしっかりと熱する。ここで焦ってしまう と、ネギの芯が残ってしまったりするので、あくまでもスロゥクック思考で。完了ポイントは人参が柔らかくなる頃です。

三.鍋がこつこつと鳴りだして、舞茸がこれでもかってくらいにだしを出し始めたら火を止め味噌を大さじ1にちょっとサービスするかんじの量で鍋に優しく溶かし入れる。愛ですよ。愛が大切ですよ。

四.ふえるわかめを入れたいだけ入れる。

五.召し上がれ!

椎茸は煮詰められると、いい感じでだしが出ますので味噌は少なめに入れても十分味わい深い仕上がりになります。塩分を控えたいという人は、ほんの色付け程度に味噌の量を調整しても全然オーケーです。

皆さんの家庭ではどんな味噌汁を作ってますか?