Discover Yosemite: A guide to the heartbeat of this planet

Many people say their most vivid memories from childhood stay in the family portraits from Yosemite National Park.

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I do not have statistics, but many people seem to carry certain degree of nostalgia when they visit Yosemite for the first time since their childhood. Aspiring mountains and small village community inside the park make this place somewhat special sanctuary undisturbed from the busy life outside. Camping in the park is very easy and facilities are thorough – you can easily forget that you are in the middle of wilderness. At night, once the campfire is fed with enough fire woods and stomachs are full with good foods (camp food is the best food) you can even look up the sky and enjoy natural planetarium above your head.

From hiking to relaxation by the beautiful lakeside, Yosemite National Parks has something for everyone. It is one of the most beloved National Parks in USA.

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4th of July Holiday is the most popular time of the year for friends and families in US to embark on weekend long adventures to explore the country’s beautiful landscapes.

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Summer season was on full swing when I visited Yosemite National Park this past weekend. Us, six fearless adventurers (although there was not much life jeopardizing challenges except for maybe car about to run out of gas..) camped out in Tuolumne Meadows and hiked all around the beautiful landscapes of Yosemite.

Day 1 – After arriving at Tuolumne Meadows campsite and pitched tents we decided to start up the long weekend with quick hike to Cathedral Lakes (7-miles/ 11.3km round trip):

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A lone pine standing in the middle of meadows along the Cathedrals Lake trail.

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Although Cathedral Lakes Trail is one of the easiest hiking course from Tuolumne Meadows area, it has many things to see along the path. Imagine this as giant’s secret garden – Families of flower and small wildlife awaits your visit. The trail is also less crowded compared to popular hiking trails near Yosemite Valley.

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Encountering horseback campers on the trail. So wild!

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Wild marmot feeding on horse drops. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.

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Jennifer and Ta resting during the Cathedral Lakes hike.

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Toby and the rest of hiking gangs.

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As we exited the woodsy trails to the lakes, suddenly the chalky white boulders appeared to blind our sights with gleaming beauty.

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Grandiose view opens up as we get closer to the Cathedral Lakes.

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We made it to the Cathedral Lakes. Now it’s time to relax and enjoy the remaining daylight…

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Cathedral Lakes

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A millions of tiny life sprouts inside the lake water. Mossy greens and fish dance to the wind that passes above the lake.

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At the end of Cathedral Lakes hike. Ta and Jennifer.

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Wise tree of Tuolumne Meadows


Day 2 – We woke up around 7am and cooked up quick breakfast and headed toward Yosemite Valley for full day of hiking. It takes roughly 45 minutes to drive to Yosemite Valley from Tuolumne Meadows.
We arrived at Curry Village around 10am and took free shuttle from there to Happy Isles Trailhead that goes upwards to Vernal and Nevada Falls through Mist Trails.

Yosemite Valley is my all time favorite hiking spot regardless of which trails to take. It’s always very special to hike along the beautiful ridges of naturally curved rocky trails and see amazing activities of waterfalls. So breathtaking!

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Fresh water fountain is available all around the park. Make sure to always carry sufficient amount of water to avoid dehydration and cramps.

If you never visited Yosemite National Park before, I would highly recommend taking Happy Isles Trail towards Vernal Fall and finish up to the grand Nevada Fall. Although the hike distance is only 1.6 mile, this elevation buster hike will definitely work you hard until the last footstep. Here’s some samples of great scenery this trail offer:

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Up up up to the Vernal Fall – the first water fall you will see on this trail.

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Beat the crowd: If you don’t like it, best to start hike as early as possible.

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Splash of falling water paints the rainbow in the mist.

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A view from the top of Vernal Fall.

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William and Nevada Fall in the background.

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Toby taking short break by Nevada Fall.

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Sree at the top of Nevada Fall.

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Nevada Fall

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A view from Nevada Fall facing towards Half Dome junction.

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Jennifer and William standing victorious at the top of Nevada Fall.

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Once you reach the top of Nevada Fall, it means the hardest part is pretty much over. You can either take the same trail down or take John Muir Trail back to the Happy Isles Trailhead. John Muir Trail is much moderate and knee-friendly compared to steep rocky trails that you just came from.

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We’ve reached the top of Nevada Fall and indulged on photography for while. Afterwards, we decided to split into two groups and diverged our paths from there to more strenuous hike.

Instead of taking the hike down on John Muir Trail, me and several other troopers took harder trail up to Glacier Point. Additional 8.5 mile trail that leads to the summit of Glacier Point is often referred as Panorama Trail (check out this link for epic detail of this trail).
Adding this extra 8.5 mile plus another 4.8 mile back to the bottom of Yosemite Valley on Four Mile Trail (quite deceiving for its name, it is actually more like Five Mile Trail) will completes the ultimate Yosemite experience. The best of the best day hike to make a full circuit around the valley.

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Words and names carved in the wood stomp on Panorama Trail.

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Pine cones and vestiges of trees burnt by wild fire from last year.

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Gazing Half Dome from the Panorama Point.

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045Yosemite Village is somewhere under the shelter of trees.

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Sree and Ta at the creek of Illilouette Falls. A “bonus” waterfall that flows somewhere midpoint between Nevada Falls and Glacier Point. You can only see this waterfall from Panorama Trail.

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William refilling his water bottle. For any kind of strenuous hikes, it is good idea to carry emergency water filter to replenish your water supply. Never drink directly from the stream as it contains gazillions of bacterias. Filter them clean or you’ll be sorry. It is also awesome to be able to drink ice cold flowing water using this simple item.

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A small part of Illilouette Falls flows through the woods creating this neat creek.

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Cross the bridge over the creek and continue towards Glacier Point.

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William stopped to snap something…

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I see. Illilouette Falls. Nice to finally meet you.

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Single most appeal of this strenuous hike is the gorgeous view of Yosemite Valley from Panorama Point. From the left you can see Half Dome (as well as some part of Clouds Rest hiding behind the Half Dome) – Vernal Fall in the middle – Nevada Fall on the right.

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We finally reached Glacier Point after about 5 hours of hike from the top of Nevada Fall.

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Reaching Glacier Point was not the ending of our long hike.
Since the shuttle bus that links between Glacier Point and Curry Village has ended, the only option to make our ways home is to hike down another 4.8 mile on Four Mile Trail back to where we started!
Never say die! Here we go!

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At the Four Mile Trail we hit the magic hour. It’s the twilight hour when the sun is about to go down but not quite set and brings up warmth of orange daylight. Making it perfect for sunset photography.

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Ta in the middle of Four Mile Trail. Fast hiker.

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Yosemite Valley slowly welcomes the night.


Day 3 – On the last day of weekend journey we woke up humbly late with slight headache from previous night’s wine consumption. Cooked slow breakfast and deconstructed tents and packed up all gears to leave the campground. As we were cleaning up the campsite a wild hawk appeared and perched on the tree above us.

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A flight of hawk. Bye bye hawk.

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All packed up and ready to roll. Two sedans left the 10E campsite and headed towards the civilization.

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…before bidding farewell to Yosemite wilderness, we made a yearning last stop at Tenaya Lake on the west of Tuolumne Meadows.

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Ta and Jennifer doing their things by Tenaya Lake.

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Toby capturing the moment on his Nikon.

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Father and son by the shore of Tenaya Lake.

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A boy at Tenaya Lake.

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Sree with her rockstar shades.

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Bye bye Yosemite. Until next time.


 

Useful links to plan for Yosemite adventure:

Yosemite National Park Website
Yosemite Valley Shuttle System
Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall Trail Guide
Yosemite Bug (Great Hostel Outside of Yosemite)

Stuffs to pack for 3-day car camping in summer time:

– Tent
– Sleeping Bag
– Sleeping Pad
– Butane Stove
– Small cooking set (Pot, Plate, Utensils, Cup)
– Flashlight (Headlight)
– Knife
– Mosquito Repellant
– Sunscreen
– Space blanket (In case the temperature drops)
– Lots of water
– Hat
– Layers of cloth
– Multipurpose Soap
– Hiking sticks (If you have one)
– Water Filter (If you have one)
– Alcohol for consumption and laughter

*While food supplies are obviously important, most items can be bought at shops in Yosemite National Parks.

Pearl of Asia: Music and lives surrounding Phnom Penh

When I look back on my Cambodia trip… I can’t help but think about the moment at the small coffee hut near Angkor Wat that I stopped before the sunrise to have some intense Cambodian coffee.
The taste of coffee was so bold it burnt my mind. Even more intense was the old television set on the counter that was showing bootleg VCD of Cambodian pop singers dressed up in ridiculously gaudy outfit and creating massive dance party on stage. Quality of video was questionable but audience was totally digging the music.
So loud and so crazy I thought the amps built inside the old tube television would blow up. Easily one of the most disturbingly powerful musical and visual experiences ever occurred to me before 6am in the morning. I’m telling you, it was like accidentally being at someone’s DIY dance party in North Hollywood…except it’s far superior.

This experience made obvious that music and dance play major role in Cambodian culture (I also ran into similar madness party at Cambodian New Year ceremony in Oakland months later).
I must admit it though, I have special affinity to Cambodian pop music so this whole experience to me was 10x more awesome than common travelers would ever afford to appreciate.

Old Asian pop music, particularly of Cambodia, is very interesting thing to listen to. Growing up in Japan, I listened my grandma humming old Japanese pop songs as she prepares dinner every night. So 歌謡曲 Kayoukyoku (Japanese oldies pop) or anything that shares roots to that type of music is no stranger to me.

Cambodian underground music is a strange mixture of good old Asian pop songs with hook of lo-fi garage sounds. It’s wildly original.
Funny thing is, Cambodian pop music shares the similar roots to Japanese pops (not to be mixed up with contemporary J-pop) that burst on my irresistible nostalgia.
If you use Spotify here’s some recommended listen:

I’d like to call this the epic compilation album that walks on the fine line between cheeky Asian pops and 60s psychedelic rock with the likes of The Velvet Underground and Os Mutantes.

Is your speaker/headphones turned up? Good. Now, let’s start on this chapter about Phnom Penh a.k.a. Pearl of Asia!

 


Phnom Penh Streets

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After about 5 hours of rough mini van ride from Siem Reap I have reached the east end of the country’s capitol, Phnom Penh.

The city spreads along the great Tonlé Sap Lake.
Phnom Penh is also known by its elegant name “Pearl of Asia”.

 


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I have yet to visit New Orleans and other cities in the US built with French influence, but I bet Phnom Penh can be counted as one of the legitimate examples of that in South East Asia.

 


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I mean… golden dragon in the middle of park… how cool is this?

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Bookstore with used books donated by travelers that passed by.

 


Once again, here in Phnom Penh I was quite lucky to meet another nice fellow on the road. Philipp the traveling German chef from Australia poses with his on-the-go backpacking gears: backpack with rainproof, point and shoot camera, GoPro, and pair of sunglasses:

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Although general part of Siem Reap was quite safe and there was no obvious threat of pickpocket attacks, I was warned by many locals in Siem Reap about Phnom Penh’s infamy as pickpocket paradise.
Be sure to wear waist-pockets to keep all your valuables tucked away from thieves’ sight. Alternatively, keeping the backpack sealed just like how Philipp is doing in above picture can also reduce the risk of getting your items snatched.

 


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Most art and culture of this beautiful country was destroyed in 1975 as atrocity of Khmer Rouge led by Pol Pot wiped away majority of artist and intellectual population from the country.

Cambodia as country has been stuck in unstable political state as depicted by Roland Joffe’s The Killing Fields. Most part of real Killing Fields still remains the way it was and whispers the country’s dreadful past. Killing Field is must visit destination for anyone traveling to Cambodia.

All of this is another reason why music and art in Cambodia are quite precious and something that need to be cherished. Pieces of work that thrive today are indeed legacy salvaged from the ashes.

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 The Killing Fields

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One definitely interesting thing about Cambodia when compared to Thailand is its road rules and languages.

In Cambodia cars drive on the right side of the road as oppose to left as it is in Thailand. The primary language aside from native Khmer tongue is French and not English. These differences actually threw me off a little bit at first but thankfully I learned quick enough not to run into on-coming traffic by mistake.

 


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Our tuk-tuk driver for a day. He spoke Khmer and French.

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People watching from tuk-tuk.

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Streets of Phnom Penh.

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Independence Monument in Phnom Penh.

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Monks outside of Royal Palace.

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Smiles of people in Cambodia was like grains of gold panned out from riverbeds. It was very honest and pure. One of my favorite moments from this trip was people watch as we walked through random streets and enjoyed night markets. Of course, sometimes these smiles make it very difficult to refuse the striking deals at Russian Market.

 


 Sunday Morning Russian Market Run

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Phnom Penh is full of energy and there is never a dull moment.
It can get quite intense just like the music, and I suppose this excitement is the main appeal to many backpackers who reach this exotic destination.

Food options are infinite in Phnom Penh and there are pretty much any type of cuisine you can think of. If you are more inclined to traditional dishes definitely try Amok (fish curry), or if you are open to anything go try Indian dosa near Independence Monument.
I also went to interesting Cambodian-style pizzeria that served pretty mediocre pizzas but had automatic door entrance which was the only one I’ve seen in Cambodia.
Even the Burger King at the airport tastes majestic! Quality of beef they use in Asia is so much better than the US.

Pearl of Asia is intense place to visit, and incomparable to almost any other places inside/outside of Cambodia.

 

Sell my old clothes, I’m off to heaven: good season for unforgettable getaway

Money and time are adamant harnesses for many people’s brilliant ideas that drag them back down to reality at its conception stage. That enormous look on bank statement never allows the “perfect season” to arrive for budget conscious travelers.


 

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058_smPhotographs from Barcelona, Spain (Winter 2011)


 

If you look at it though, time and money is only a temporary expenditure that you can eventually earn back if you work hard enough, whereas missed opportunity to be in the moment of traveling is something that you can never take back. You simply have no one but yourself to blame for not doing it.


 

015_smPhotograph from Zaragoza, Spain (Winter 2011)


Let me tell you this — traveling the world is soulful investment of your time to enrich your life that not only teaches you how far you can go physically but also lead you closer to the definition of “who you are”.

So don’t fret yet, there is a way to make awesome travel itinerary without spending too much and within short time frame.
I am writing this post today to share some of my suggestion that hopefully encourage you to realize the dream.


 

029_smPhotograph from Madrid, Spain (Winter 2011)


Preparing for your travel of lifetime.

There is something you can start today to save money for traveling.
For example, when I was planning for travel to Spain three years ago I cancelled all the unused subscriptions like expensive gym membership, cable that I never used, sold stuffs on eBay and Craigslist, and switched my mobile plan to something cheaper. It was the best way to start saving bucks for travel.

When you start to think about saving for travel, your focus should really be on eliminating the excess. Learn to live only with your need is good starting point. The toughest part in modern life is to recognize excess and work against them. Think twice before you proceed to the register — that extra dollar saving may be able to put you on nice cruise around Mont Saint-Michel!


 

044_Ride onto CivilizationPhotograph from Edinburgh, Scotland (Spring 2013)


 

Let me tell you some stories.

In last 18 months, I’ve moved from Los Angeles to London then to San Francisco. This involved many new encounters and separation which certainly was both bitter and sweet at times. Essentially, I’ve made many friends at every short stop and parted my way to the next stop; and through each person I started to learn more about myself. Direction of my life was constantly shifting during this 18 months, and transition from city to city helped to develop my traveler mindset. Now here I am, an agile-ready suitcase tripper that can fly around the world with minimal belongings (my current possession can easily be packed into 3 suitcases and ready to go!).

When I moved from LA to London, selling my record collection was the hardest thing to do. After contemplating for few weeks whether I should buy another big box to ship to London, I finally decided to drop off my boxes of LPs to Record Surplus.
I had many awesome records in my collection and $100 in return was like shit, but it had to happen. Hopefully some cool audiophile picked up that Tom Waits “Rain Dog” LP and My Bloody Valentine “Isn’t Anything” LP for good price. After all, selling art is a positive cause to keep the circulation going. Also this decision saved me much money and space in my luggage.

Personal items like journals and photo albums are obviously something that you don’t want to throw away because they are the records of your life. These are the ones that I always struggle to get rid of. I sent 3 boxes worth of personal works such as writings, film reels, and photo negatives to my parents’ house in Guam prior to departure from the US. If you are planning to travel abroad for long time and come back to the country eventually, the personal storage is also legitimate option for temporary holding. Do whatever you can to cut down your possession to minimal before leaving the country.
This is what I’ve learned.


 

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031_AutumnPhotographs from London, England (Fall 2012)


Once the most personal items are kept at safe place everything else like clothes, car, books, DVDs, furniture, and other items are relatively easy to get rid of. Try not to think too hard about it and just take your stuffs to Good Will and post on Craigslist and do yard sale.

Well, these suggestions are tied to my unique travel condition so it’s not 100% applicable for short term traveling, but you get the point.
If you have it and don’t need it why not sell it to make extra bucks?


 

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Art11Photographs from Venice Beach, CA (Fall 2011)


 

Setting aside little amount of money to account for your travel fund is smartest way to pace yourself to goal. For example, most traveling from California region in USA to Europe costs around $1000 for round-trip flight throughout the year. Skyscanner is great source for finding cheapest air fare.
If you are smart about choosing inexpensive accommodation (I will touch on this later), it is possible to have amazing time in Spain in three different cities Madrid, Barcelona, and Zaragoza with just little over $1000. When I went to Spain for Christmas three years ago, I had budget of $2000 for 7-10 days (including flight and accommodation). So this is definitely do-able.
If you are planning to travel about 6-months from now, go start calculating your budget starting TODAY and search for flights. Generally, the flight fare locks about 46 days before the departure so keep your eyes out for great deal around that time.
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As I have been emphasizing throughout my travel postings, short term travel can cost more than long term one.
Why? Because with short term travel you will have to compromise some of the following:

1. Transportation – Plane (faster, expensive) vs. Train (slower, cheaper)
2. Food (fine dining to taste the best of the city…might as well)
3. Accommodation (comfortable private room vs. shitty 2-star dorm where you can hardly catch good night sleep)
4. Admission to major tourist attractions (expedited service which can cost additional fee)

In this post, I will highlight some basic tips that can help you build pretty awesome itinerary regardless of your travel time frame.

008Photograph from Regent Hostel in Paris, France.


 

Find affordable option for your stay.

Affordable, but also comfortable. You will burn lots of energy in short term traveling especially if you are active traveler like myself and wanting to see as much as possible in available time. You have to keep your feet moving! So some comfortable bedding with less distraction from sleep is preferable to rest up your tired body.
Search for hostel/guesthouses on Hostelworld.com or Hostel.com. Wherever your destination will be, there is definitely affordable housing option for low budget traveling. You just need to look at the right place 🙂

For peaceful and comfortable hostel experience (unlike how it’s been stigmatized by Eli Roth’s film of the same title) make sure to read all the reviews and pay particular attention to considerable noise-level of the facility. I generally avoid choosing hostels with negative reviews on loudness and dismiss it from my list if I see remark as “party hostel”. These hostels exist in almost every backpacker destination.
Obviously, if party is your scene, go for it and book it by all means; but remember there are always fascinating adventures waiting in the city. So you don’t need to party at the hostel 🙂
For beginners, Hostel International is probably the most reliable option. This company hosts numerous travelers every day all around the world. I stayed at their hostels in Chicago, Monterey, and San Francisco and the facilities and bedding was all perfect. Definitely recommended as alternative to rather expensive hotel stays.

 


022Hands down. Best thing to do food wise in Spain is tapas. With 5 caña (half pint beer) you can enjoy complimentary tapas plates like tortilla!

007Had pint of pilsner and brat wurst with locals at pub that I stumbled upon in Frankfurt, Germany.


Eat wisely.

Same goes with eating and drinking. Since you are in different country you might as well try something new at every destination.
While guidebook is easiest answer to find what to eat in the city, it is also complacent and you can end up spending so much.
Meet the locals and seek their recommendation. Asking workers at local produce or meat market  is actually good way to find the restaurants that are less commercialized than guidebooks.
Yelp is another good way to quickly search for cafe and indie bars although it kind of takes away that excitement to discover cool dig by yourself.


003_smFree walking tour operated by staffs at Way Hostel Madrid. This tour is designed to see many landmarks in Madrid by foot and also mingle with fellow travelers.

139I got hooked up with free Ceine river cruise tour by a friend that I made in Paris. Be who you are and connect with people! That’s the number 1 rule on traveling solo.

034_InLondonFree walking tour in London. In conjunction of local organization and Meetup.com


 

You don’t have to spend dime for AWESOME tours.

There are many tour that you can participate for completely free.
It’s good idea to choose hostel based on availability of staff operated tours. These tours are usually free, and designed to give you glances of what the city has to offer and also connect with fellow travelers.
Although free tours may not be as thorough as the ones you can join for more money, it gives you good perspective of the city. I usually join these free tours as soon as I arrive the hostel to get used to the geography and grasp the knowledge of neighborhood before starting the adventure. Meeting other travelers is obviously another perks of these free tours as I’ve been continuously insisting on my other posts. If you are planning to stay in the city for while, Meetup.com is also good resource to join the events organized by locals.


 

014_Hikers in SnowfallCotswolds hike in England.
Meetup event that was independently organized by hikers group and open to anyone with very small organization fee (20 pounds).
One full day spent active and I made some friends!

024_smPinnacles National Park in California.
Another Meetup hike that was completely free and group members also actively helped the car-less participants with transportation.


 

So why are you still contemplating whether should or should not do that big dream travel of yours? Freedom is non-tameable beast and you will loose it before you know it. Hopefully, some of the tips above can help you make up your mind. After all, traveling is opportunity to cultivate your soul. As many have said it before, you will NEVER regret for traveling and it will enrich your life after you return.

You might as well do it while it’s on your mind 🙂


 

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Shots GODPhotographs from Santa Monica, CA (Fall 2011)


 

Please leave a comment if you liked my post and share it with your friends going on big travel.

 

 

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