Singapore is a gem of a place – a multi-faceted gem in fact. One of the many things that really stood out during our visit was the bustling energy of many ethnic quarters. I had so much fun strolling around and snapping photos in colorful Little India and Bugis/Arab Street. It was truly a valuable experience to feel the heartbeat of each of Singapore’s diverse cultures thriving in these neighborhoods and to feel how closely these cultures are woven together. Like the faces of a gem, each of Singapore’s neighborhoods shine brightly in their uniqueness.
Little India’s vibrant colored murals struck me immediately upon arrival. Almost every street-sided wall was painted in high contrast and vibrant hues like the spilled memories from childhood dreams. These murals reminded me of simpler times, and stimulated my curiosity to learn more about the painters. I saw a temple and markets that stood in the center of the neighborhood and witnessed the houses built around them. Little India exhibited the authentic reflection of people’s lifestyle revolving around religion and ancient custom.
A walk from Little India to the Bugis neighborhood was a pleasant way to experience the transition of the multi-cultural aspect of Singapore. My initial objective was just to get a bowl of Singaporean laksa at Sungei Road Laksa, but little did I know, this small task soon expanded into a journey that simulated a transcontinental expedition within a few metro stations distance. My camera and I were on high alert for exciting street photography opportunities on this journey.
Sungei Road Laksa was just about to get really busy for the lunch crowd. This famous hawker stall inside a small food center was a popular lunch destination for many local workers to slurp on the goodness. Singaporean laksa is prepared in a smooth and mildly tangy seafood broth, and it was quite delicious and different from the Malaysian-style laksa that I tasted later on in our trip. My formal introduction to laksa didn’t last for long and I quickly reached the bottom of the bowl before the satisfaction set in.
Laksa was delicious, but it didn’t completely stop my hunger and further cravings. I stumbled upon a food article about the best curry rice in Singapore, and one of the highest ranking dishes was a “scissor cut curry rice” on Beach Road. The article mentioned a hawker stall that is supposedly one of the last remaining torchbearers of old-time Singaporean favorites. It turned out, Beach Road Scissor-Cut Curry Rice was only a few minutes walk from Sungei Road Laksa, so I followed my instincts to find the restaurant that serves this mysterious dish.
Beach Road Scissor-Cut Curry Rice really deserves to be added to any foodies’ go-to list in Singapore. An indulgent amount of pork belly and pork chop were perfectly cut into bite size pieces with the skillful usage of scissors and topped over rice with eggs and vegetables. The whole plate was then garnished with a rich and thick gravy that tied everything together into one transcendental culinary experience. This was not a light meal option whatsoever and it demanded my taste bud’s full attention. I never quite tasted anything as good or as satisfying as this before.B
Bugis is a Muslim quarter in Singapore signified by the beautiful Masjid Sultan mosque and busy Arab Street. The moment I stepped into Bugis, I was drawn-in by the intricate patterns of tapestries hanging from the store ceilings and the busy foot traffic of people attending the mosque. Becca, Michelle, and I met up at the entrance of Arab Street and explored the series of beautiful garment shops around Masjid Sultan.
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We waited out the momentary rainfall at the cafe and continued our journey through a narrow alley to Haji Lane. Haji Lane is a bohemian street that runs parallel to Arab Street and has many small boutique shops accompanied by eye-catching murals and sculptures. As my friend Joe, who moved from San Francisco to Singapore three years ago perfectly put it, Haji Lane is like the Haight Street of Singapore. We did some window shopping, tried a cup of yuzu sorbet and headed towards Bugis Junction to catch the metro.
High skyscrapers full of financial offices and the busyness of intersecting city roads became more apparent as we got closer to the metro station. The sight of exotic Muslim quarter quickly became replaced by the expansion of a stenciled urban living. Singapore yet again returned to the face of the mega city.
We entered the Bugis Junction Metro Station and spent some touristy moments finding the ticket machine. Singapore’s metro system was punctual, efficient and, with utmost importance, spotlessly clean! It was still early in the afternoon, so we dodged the commuter rush and hopped on the train to join a manageable crowd of weekday travelers moving through the veins of the Singapore underground. Chinatown was only two stations away.
Chinatown in daytime was very different from the time I spent in the evening alone. Many people were out and about in this exciting neighborhood. Becca, Michelle, and I explored the street vendors all decorated with red New Years ornaments and bought many souvenirs such as beef jerky, salted egg fish skin, and kaya coconut jelly. Becca and I also tried a fish foot massage and got our feet tickled by hungry little fish. It was the perfect way to conclude the long day of walking.
I hope you get to enjoy the scenery of the unique ethnic quarters of Singapore through this blog post. Thank you for reading! Up next, we will continue with our culinary exploration of Singapore on Christmas Day!
Written by: Kosuke Haga
Edited by: Rebecca Hoover