It was two days before New Year’s Eve. Recounting the past ten days spent in the island nations of Singapore and Malaysia, it had been the perfect conclusion to the year. 2019 was a year filled with many travels, meetings of friends and family, and shared celebration of all of the good fortune that surrounded us. As I started to organize my luggage in preparation for our flight back to the states, I decided to do something that I always do on the final day of travel. Rereading my journals and visiting the last remaining points of interest that had been reserved for the tail-end of our journey.
The Jewel
Just like a pearly necklace sparkling with a blinding shimmering light, the Jewel of Changi Airport surprised us with its grandiose scale. Jewel is a shopping center built inside the airport that houses a rainforest and impressive waterfall vortex simulating an oasis in the depth of a forbidden island. Jewel was quintessentially Singaporean with its impeccable presentation of reputable shops and eye-catching attractions. When Becca and I visited the skywalk bridge, we had no questions about why it had become a quintessential part of the Singaporean experience.
We saved Jewel for our last destination because we lodged at a hotel nearby for the last day in Singapore and it was relatively easy to squeeze into the action-packed schedule on our way back from Penang. After exploring and having lunch at Jewel, we took a taxi to check in to the hotel. Becca and I then ventured out to Chinatown for our last souvenir shopping.
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It was Sunday afternoon but we must have missed the rush hour of visitors as Chinatown was calm in its temperament. Strolling around the vibrant neighborhood felt relaxing under the somber grey sky. Markets and vendors all seemed to enjoy the slower pace of a sleepy weekend before a rainstorm that will inevitably tuck them under their canopies. Becca and I were on the search for sambal (Indonesian chili paste) and kaya (coconut jelly) to take back home. On our walk we drifted along the mood of the weekend’s end that had perfectly synchronized with the sentiment of the ending trip.
Watching the rain clouds from Five Oars Coffee Roasters on Tanjong Pagar Road
After bidding farewell to Chinatown, we stopped at Five Oars Coffee Roasters on Tanjong Pagar Road for a cup of coffee before heading back to Changi. We sipped on a coffee and nibbled on a chocolate treat as we reminisced about all of the places we had visited. Our trip to Singapore and Malaysia was something like a fresh stroke of a brush on an empty canvas, and we did not expect it to be such an amazing experience at the end. From the night stroll around Chinatown to the mystical rainforests gallery in Penang, we made some of the most unforgettable memories in great company. If my tired legs had been the result of the many miles of earth we had walked across in this previously unknown part of the world, each ache was not only worth it but well-deserved.
Thank you Singapore and Malaysia for treating us well. And… thanks to you, the readers, for sticking around with us on this special journey. Hope you stay well and that we see each other again very soon!
Singapore, being an island nation that used to be part of Malaysia, it seems natural to think that there must be many intersections in the underlying cultures and to expect some similar experiences when traveling to these places. A short flight from Singapore to Penang revealed the dramatic differences between the two nations: Singapore in all of its well curated splendor and Malaysia as the more earthy and earnest sister of this corner of Southeast Asia.Penang is the spirit that runs like a current of electricity through Singapore.
We spent the morning at the Jewel in Singapore’s Changi Airport (a report of that experience to be shared in a later post), and took a one hour and thirty minutes flight to Penang. Penang Airport, unlike Singapore’s magnificent piece of art, was modest in size and resembled many small city domestic airports in the United States. There was no intimidating excess of shopping and the airport’s arrival terminal was designed for travelers to quickly diverge their paths as soon as they hauled their luggage. Becca, Michelle, and I exited the airport smoothly and used the Grab app to hire a taxi to reach Gurney Drive where we had booked an Airbnb for our 3 nights stay in Penang.
Our taxi driver was very conversational and shared many good recommendations for food to eat in Penang. He also plugged in a few questions about the price of electronics in Malaysia and mentioned how he is a proud owner of the latest iPhone. Somehow it didn’t occur to me that Penang is one of the up-and-coming hubs for technology companies in Malaysia. There are many people working at startup companies full-time while also driving ride shares for extra income – much like back in California! I watched the buildings of tech companies, a scenic Jerejak Island floating in the distance and Penang Bridge extending to mainland Malaysia as we drove up the coastal highway to George Town.
Ocean view from our Airbnb on Gurney Drive.
Gurney Drive is a resort center in Penang that stretches along the expansive beach shoreline and offers incredible ocean views from almost every 2 storey+ building. We stayed on the 10th floor of an apartment building a few blocks away from the beach and basked in 360 degree views of the Pacific Ocean from the windows. DEspite the fact that the beach outside the apartment was still under maintenance from the aftermath of the tsunami a few years back, we fully enjoyed the changing view of Penang in day and night from our resort accommodation.
Twilight hour from our Airbnb.
Our first day in Penang was spent relaxing with takeout curry from the hawker stalls (thanks to Grab app delivery). In the evening, I ventured out to Gurney Drive Hawker Center to join the wedding party for the first contact with Penang delicacy.
Gurney Drive Hawker Center bustling at night.
My experience at Gurney Drive Hawker Center was quite different from the previous night spent at Newton Food Center in Singapore. The place was bustling with energy, and people were wandering shoulder to shoulder with little to no space between passing! I also noticed there were significantly more varieties of Malay cuisine that I had not seen at the other hawker centers we visited in Singapore. Kudos to my friends for securing a full size table amidst this madness!
Chicken satay from the hawker stall. Penang Rojak! a.k.a. Malaysian salad.Newlyweds!Chee cheong fun. A delightful rice cake with sweet and spicy soy paste.
Just like in Singapore, our table was filled with a bountiful rotation of regional flavors. I got really busy trying different types of noodle dishes and analyzing the flavor notes in each bite of exotic salad dishes. Street food culture in Penang was a poignant culinary expedition and I needed to use my taste buds as guidance to navigate through the intricate maze of flavors.
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Gurney Drive Hawker Center was a great introduction to the Penang culture. Not only did I have a chance to appreciate many incredible foods, but I was exposed to the authentic Muslim culture that exists in Malaysia. Rojak, which is one of the Muslim culinary experiences, was definitely one of the more shocking encounters I have had on my curious walks around the hawker centers. I had no preliminary knowledge about this Malaysian style salad, but one particular stall named “Disco Pasembur Rojak” lured me into the depth of this mysterious delicacy. Like a moth to flame, I joined the winding queue of the festive stall that blared awesome 90s dance jams (somehow it was not disco music). Immediately, I saw many people smiling and enjoying picking from the selection of toppings for the salad.
I was a total noob and had no idea how a rojak stall works. I just followed the queue and did what everyone else was doing: took a green plate and used the tongs to pick up what appears to be fried fish cakes and tofu, all the while bass heavy music was bumping from the overhead speakers. At the very end of the line, a gentleman with a big knife collected my plate and chopped the fried items into tiny bite size pieces. Once the pieces were reasonably diced down, he added bean sprouts, fresh green vegetables, and finally poured a heavy dollop of mysterious red sauce.
Rojak!
Unfortunately, I do not have a good comment to provide for rojak as far as flavor is concerned. It was strangely sweet and dense! I can say this would be a perfect meal to eat after only having a bowl of cereal for breakfast in the morning as it will definitely fill you up. It was by no means a substitute for a fantastic bowl of laksa, which I followed up with to cleanse my taste palette.
Penang-style laksa was quite different from Singaporean-style. Penang laksa I got from the hawker stall was tangy, acidic, and fishy. It had a very strong flavor. This dish is definitely not for everyone, but I liked it a lot!
Evening seemed to calm down as the dinner crowds started to part ways with their respective happy bellies. I took a taxi back to the apartment with takeout chicken satay and Penang-style laksa. After settling down for a few minutes at the apartment, I took the elevator to find a fancy cocktail bar with a view on the top floor of the apartment. Here’s some shimmering views of George Town at night from the sky room:
Thank you for reading my blog post! Next we will explore the art districts of George Town and some reports on hidden gems of nightlife. Please stay tuned!
Tropical Christmas arrived in Singapore with clear blue skies and puffy lazy clouds. The hotel lobby was filled with Christmas music and vacationers wearing shorts ready for another summery day on the tropical island. We started our Christmas Day adventure from Maxwell Food Center and experienced some of the gold standards of Singaporean street food.
Chicken Rice from Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice
Maxwell Food Center is one of the most well-known hawker centers in Singapore – made famous by Hainanese chicken rice. There are several chicken rice stalls competing with each other for the longest lines and snaking around the storefronts. We hopped in the line for Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice and ordered three plates of Singapore’s golden standard.M
Chicken rice is exactly what the name suggests, it is a plate full of steamed chicken over a rice glazed with savory sauce. This simple, yet flavorful dish is one of Singapore’s most essential delicacies, and it enthralls food enthusiasts from all over the world; not to mention, Anthony Bourdain. We also tried laksa and chicken satay at Maxwell Food Center, but nothing really stood out in comparison to the brilliance of the chicken rice. Hawker hopping was a really fun way to start Christmas with big flavors. After breakfast, we made our way to Merlion Park.
Durian popsicle from a souvenir store near Merlion.
Merlion Park was more lively than when I visited in the early morning three days ago. We took obligatory trick photos and explored around the park. After spending some time at the souvenir store, Becca and Michelle headed to Orchard Road for Christmas shopping, and I took a taxi to Joo Chait/Katong to visit the old Peranakan Houses.
Peranakan Houses near Joo Chiat Road
Katong District is located in the southeastern part of Singapore and preserves many old heritage buildings. Peranakan style buildings in this neighborhood were among the most beautiful architectural styles remaining in Singapore. They display the extravagance of the wealthy lifestyle of middle class citizens in the early 20th century. Peranakan style buildings are colorful, intricately designed, and incredibly photogenic. If you have ever visited the Painted Ladies in San Francisco (a.k.a. “The Full House” houses), the charming appearance of the Peranakan Houses in Katong might remind you of the family sitcom minus the catchy theme song.
However, the most memorable site in Katong/Joo Chiat was actually not the Peranakan Houses. What really left a vivid impression was the contrasting sight of small residential streets tucked behind the beloved houses. The alleyway that took me through the series of worn out residential buildings spoke more powerfully. There were definitive signs of life in the inconspicuous streets of a beige-colored residential neighborhood.
When I go on street photography excursions, I often find myself searching for something that is less adorned and more natural. Making my way through the maze of residential alleys in Katong satisfied my desire to witness the authentic side of Singapore as well as its contrasting beauty. Sure, the camera-ready heritage houses were eye-catching, alluding to the time of their youth and vibrancy. However, in the meticulousness of their preservation, they seemed locked in an expressionless conservation of former glory. Seeing the frayed walls of rusty apartment buildings showed a side of Singapore lacking the same pretension and grace, but inexcusably raw, thriving and beautiful in its earnestness. The two contrasting visuals made Katong a perfect place for street photography.
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Joo Chiat Road, which cuts through Katong District, is full of restaurants and retailers curated for its residents. I did not see many tourists in this area, and it was especially quiet on Christmas Day. There were many Peranakan style buildings along the Joo Chiat Road that kept my camera entertained throughout the stroll. It was also fun to see the contrasting styles of modern buildings blending into this heritage street. I stopped to take photos at Choice Cuts Goods + Coffee record store and Sinpopo Brand cafe having been caught by their modern, kitchy storefronts.
Sinpopo Brand signature “Muay Pop” was a soda filled with sour plum ice pops. It was a perfect Christmas beverage in hot and humid Singapore.
It was the final full day in Singapore before heading to Malaysia, so I decided to eat my way through the rest of Christmas in Singapore, visiting another food center in Katong. It was important to try all the essential eats so that my taste buds could remember this wonderful country forever. My next hunt for the hawker stalls was bak kut teh. “What is bak kut teh?,” you might ask. This is a Malaysian-style pork rib, slow cooked in a broth flavored with anise, cloves, cinnamon, peppers, garlic, and other secret spices. The soup was deep in flavor and soothing. It was not difficult to believe this dish is usually consumed as a means to beat the cold and reinvigorate the body after a long day of labor in Singapore.
Bak kut teh
The food center that I visited in Katong was very calm. It was remote, far from tourist attractions and busy landmarks. It gave an impression of how an average day in the life in this small corner of the mega city goes. The weather in Singapore is unpredictable and the forecast is usually not reliable. When I finished my bowl of bak kut teh, the rain really started to pick up and the white noise of heavy downpour muffled everything around the food center. It was a peaceful moment to sit at the vacant food hall table and listen to the rain. It made me feel people’s lives were amplified while the world around went silent.
Christmas night was spent with friends and families at Newton Food Center. We ordered many Singaporean street food standards like hokkien mee (fried noodles with shrimps), chai tow kway (carrot cake), and chili crab. It was a beautiful evening of friendship and indulgence and I couldn’t be more grateful to have such wonderful company to find home within such a distant part of the world. Travel is always more meaningful when there are people to share the experiences with.
Thank you for following our journey with us through this blog post! Up next, I will take you to the beautiful little island of Penang in Malaysia for more amazing food and colorful photos please stay tuned!
