Tropical Christmas arrived in Singapore with clear blue skies and puffy lazy clouds. The hotel lobby was filled with Christmas music and vacationers wearing shorts ready for another summery day on the tropical island. We started our Christmas Day adventure from Maxwell Food Center and experienced some of the gold standards of Singaporean street food.
Maxwell Food Center is one of the most well-known hawker centers in Singapore – made famous by Hainanese chicken rice. There are several chicken rice stalls competing with each other for the longest lines and snaking around the storefronts. We hopped in the line for Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice and ordered three plates of Singapore’s golden standard.M
Chicken rice is exactly what the name suggests, it is a plate full of steamed chicken over a rice glazed with savory sauce. This simple, yet flavorful dish is one of Singapore’s most essential delicacies, and it enthralls food enthusiasts from all over the world; not to mention, Anthony Bourdain. We also tried laksa and chicken satay at Maxwell Food Center, but nothing really stood out in comparison to the brilliance of the chicken rice. Hawker hopping was a really fun way to start Christmas with big flavors. After breakfast, we made our way to Merlion Park.
Merlion Park was more lively than when I visited in the early morning three days ago. We took obligatory trick photos and explored around the park. After spending some time at the souvenir store, Becca and Michelle headed to Orchard Road for Christmas shopping, and I took a taxi to Joo Chait/Katong to visit the old Peranakan Houses.
Katong District is located in the southeastern part of Singapore and preserves many old heritage buildings. Peranakan style buildings in this neighborhood were among the most beautiful architectural styles remaining in Singapore. They display the extravagance of the wealthy lifestyle of middle class citizens in the early 20th century. Peranakan style buildings are colorful, intricately designed, and incredibly photogenic. If you have ever visited the Painted Ladies in San Francisco (a.k.a. “The Full House” houses), the charming appearance of the Peranakan Houses in Katong might remind you of the family sitcom minus the catchy theme song.
However, the most memorable site in Katong/Joo Chiat was actually not the Peranakan Houses. What really left a vivid impression was the contrasting sight of small residential streets tucked behind the beloved houses. The alleyway that took me through the series of worn out residential buildings spoke more powerfully. There were definitive signs of life in the inconspicuous streets of a beige-colored residential neighborhood.
When I go on street photography excursions, I often find myself searching for something that is less adorned and more natural. Making my way through the maze of residential alleys in Katong satisfied my desire to witness the authentic side of Singapore as well as its contrasting beauty. Sure, the camera-ready heritage houses were eye-catching, alluding to the time of their youth and vibrancy. However, in the meticulousness of their preservation, they seemed locked in an expressionless conservation of former glory. Seeing the frayed walls of rusty apartment buildings showed a side of Singapore lacking the same pretension and grace, but inexcusably raw, thriving and beautiful in its earnestness. The two contrasting visuals made Katong a perfect place for street photography.
Joo Chiat Road, which cuts through Katong District, is full of restaurants and retailers curated for its residents. I did not see many tourists in this area, and it was especially quiet on Christmas Day. There were many Peranakan style buildings along the Joo Chiat Road that kept my camera entertained throughout the stroll. It was also fun to see the contrasting styles of modern buildings blending into this heritage street. I stopped to take photos at Choice Cuts Goods + Coffee record store and Sinpopo Brand cafe having been caught by their modern, kitchy storefronts.
It was a perfect Christmas beverage in hot and humid Singapore.
It was the final full day in Singapore before heading to Malaysia, so I decided to eat my way through the rest of Christmas in Singapore, visiting another food center in Katong. It was important to try all the essential eats so that my taste buds could remember this wonderful country forever. My next hunt for the hawker stalls was bak kut teh. “What is bak kut teh?,” you might ask. This is a Malaysian-style pork rib, slow cooked in a broth flavored with anise, cloves, cinnamon, peppers, garlic, and other secret spices. The soup was deep in flavor and soothing. It was not difficult to believe this dish is usually consumed as a means to beat the cold and reinvigorate the body after a long day of labor in Singapore.
The food center that I visited in Katong was very calm. It was remote, far from tourist attractions and busy landmarks. It gave an impression of how an average day in the life in this small corner of the mega city goes. The weather in Singapore is unpredictable and the forecast is usually not reliable. When I finished my bowl of bak kut teh, the rain really started to pick up and the white noise of heavy downpour muffled everything around the food center. It was a peaceful moment to sit at the vacant food hall table and listen to the rain. It made me feel people’s lives were amplified while the world around went silent.
Christmas night was spent with friends and families at Newton Food Center. We ordered many Singaporean street food standards like hokkien mee (fried noodles with shrimps), chai tow kway (carrot cake), and chili crab. It was a beautiful evening of friendship and indulgence and I couldn’t be more grateful to have such wonderful company to find home within such a distant part of the world. Travel is always more meaningful when there are people to share the experiences with.
Thank you for following our journey with us through this blog post!
Up next, I will take you to the beautiful little island of Penang in Malaysia for more amazing food and colorful photos please stay tuned!
Written by: Kosuke Haga
Edited by: Rebecca Hoover