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Discover Yosemite: A guide to the heartbeat of this planet

Many people say their most vivid memories from childhood stay in the family portraits from Yosemite National Park.

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I do not have statistics, but many people seem to carry certain degree of nostalgia when they visit Yosemite for the first time since their childhood. Aspiring mountains and small village community inside the park make this place somewhat special sanctuary undisturbed from the busy life outside. Camping in the park is very easy and facilities are thorough – you can easily forget that you are in the middle of wilderness. At night, once the campfire is fed with enough fire woods and stomachs are full with good foods (camp food is the best food) you can even look up the sky and enjoy natural planetarium above your head.

From hiking to relaxation by the beautiful lakeside, Yosemite National Parks has something for everyone. It is one of the most beloved National Parks in USA.

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4th of July Holiday is the most popular time of the year for friends and families in US to embark on weekend long adventures to explore the country’s beautiful landscapes.

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Summer season was on full swing when I visited Yosemite National Park this past weekend. Us, six fearless adventurers (although there was not much life jeopardizing challenges except for maybe car about to run out of gas..) camped out in Tuolumne Meadows and hiked all around the beautiful landscapes of Yosemite.

Day 1 – After arriving at Tuolumne Meadows campsite and pitched tents we decided to start up the long weekend with quick hike to Cathedral Lakes (7-miles/ 11.3km round trip):

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A lone pine standing in the middle of meadows along the Cathedrals Lake trail.

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Although Cathedral Lakes Trail is one of the easiest hiking course from Tuolumne Meadows area, it has many things to see along the path. Imagine this as giant’s secret garden – Families of flower and small wildlife awaits your visit. The trail is also less crowded compared to popular hiking trails near Yosemite Valley.

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Encountering horseback campers on the trail. So wild!

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Wild marmot feeding on horse drops. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.

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Jennifer and Ta resting during the Cathedral Lakes hike.

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Toby and the rest of hiking gangs.

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As we exited the woodsy trails to the lakes, suddenly the chalky white boulders appeared to blind our sights with gleaming beauty.

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Grandiose view opens up as we get closer to the Cathedral Lakes.

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We made it to the Cathedral Lakes. Now it’s time to relax and enjoy the remaining daylight…

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Cathedral Lakes

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A millions of tiny life sprouts inside the lake water. Mossy greens and fish dance to the wind that passes above the lake.

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At the end of Cathedral Lakes hike. Ta and Jennifer.

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Wise tree of Tuolumne Meadows


Day 2 – We woke up around 7am and cooked up quick breakfast and headed toward Yosemite Valley for full day of hiking. It takes roughly 45 minutes to drive to Yosemite Valley from Tuolumne Meadows.
We arrived at Curry Village around 10am and took free shuttle from there to Happy Isles Trailhead that goes upwards to Vernal and Nevada Falls through Mist Trails.

Yosemite Valley is my all time favorite hiking spot regardless of which trails to take. It’s always very special to hike along the beautiful ridges of naturally curved rocky trails and see amazing activities of waterfalls. So breathtaking!

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Fresh water fountain is available all around the park. Make sure to always carry sufficient amount of water to avoid dehydration and cramps.

If you never visited Yosemite National Park before, I would highly recommend taking Happy Isles Trail towards Vernal Fall and finish up to the grand Nevada Fall. Although the hike distance is only 1.6 mile, this elevation buster hike will definitely work you hard until the last footstep. Here’s some samples of great scenery this trail offer:

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Up up up to the Vernal Fall – the first water fall you will see on this trail.

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Beat the crowd: If you don’t like it, best to start hike as early as possible.

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Splash of falling water paints the rainbow in the mist.

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A view from the top of Vernal Fall.

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William and Nevada Fall in the background.

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Toby taking short break by Nevada Fall.

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Sree at the top of Nevada Fall.

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Nevada Fall

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A view from Nevada Fall facing towards Half Dome junction.

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Jennifer and William standing victorious at the top of Nevada Fall.

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Once you reach the top of Nevada Fall, it means the hardest part is pretty much over. You can either take the same trail down or take John Muir Trail back to the Happy Isles Trailhead. John Muir Trail is much moderate and knee-friendly compared to steep rocky trails that you just came from.

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We’ve reached the top of Nevada Fall and indulged on photography for while. Afterwards, we decided to split into two groups and diverged our paths from there to more strenuous hike.

Instead of taking the hike down on John Muir Trail, me and several other troopers took harder trail up to Glacier Point. Additional 8.5 mile trail that leads to the summit of Glacier Point is often referred as Panorama Trail (check out this link for epic detail of this trail).
Adding this extra 8.5 mile plus another 4.8 mile back to the bottom of Yosemite Valley on Four Mile Trail (quite deceiving for its name, it is actually more like Five Mile Trail) will completes the ultimate Yosemite experience. The best of the best day hike to make a full circuit around the valley.

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Words and names carved in the wood stomp on Panorama Trail.

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Pine cones and vestiges of trees burnt by wild fire from last year.

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Gazing Half Dome from the Panorama Point.

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045Yosemite Village is somewhere under the shelter of trees.

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Sree and Ta at the creek of Illilouette Falls. A “bonus” waterfall that flows somewhere midpoint between Nevada Falls and Glacier Point. You can only see this waterfall from Panorama Trail.

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William refilling his water bottle. For any kind of strenuous hikes, it is good idea to carry emergency water filter to replenish your water supply. Never drink directly from the stream as it contains gazillions of bacterias. Filter them clean or you’ll be sorry. It is also awesome to be able to drink ice cold flowing water using this simple item.

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A small part of Illilouette Falls flows through the woods creating this neat creek.

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Cross the bridge over the creek and continue towards Glacier Point.

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William stopped to snap something…

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I see. Illilouette Falls. Nice to finally meet you.

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Single most appeal of this strenuous hike is the gorgeous view of Yosemite Valley from Panorama Point. From the left you can see Half Dome (as well as some part of Clouds Rest hiding behind the Half Dome) – Vernal Fall in the middle – Nevada Fall on the right.

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We finally reached Glacier Point after about 5 hours of hike from the top of Nevada Fall.

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Reaching Glacier Point was not the ending of our long hike.
Since the shuttle bus that links between Glacier Point and Curry Village has ended, the only option to make our ways home is to hike down another 4.8 mile on Four Mile Trail back to where we started!
Never say die! Here we go!

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At the Four Mile Trail we hit the magic hour. It’s the twilight hour when the sun is about to go down but not quite set and brings up warmth of orange daylight. Making it perfect for sunset photography.

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Ta in the middle of Four Mile Trail. Fast hiker.

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Yosemite Valley slowly welcomes the night.


Day 3 – On the last day of weekend journey we woke up humbly late with slight headache from previous night’s wine consumption. Cooked slow breakfast and deconstructed tents and packed up all gears to leave the campground. As we were cleaning up the campsite a wild hawk appeared and perched on the tree above us.

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A flight of hawk. Bye bye hawk.

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All packed up and ready to roll. Two sedans left the 10E campsite and headed towards the civilization.

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…before bidding farewell to Yosemite wilderness, we made a yearning last stop at Tenaya Lake on the west of Tuolumne Meadows.

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Ta and Jennifer doing their things by Tenaya Lake.

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Toby capturing the moment on his Nikon.

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Father and son by the shore of Tenaya Lake.

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A boy at Tenaya Lake.

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Sree with her rockstar shades.

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Bye bye Yosemite. Until next time.


 

Useful links to plan for Yosemite adventure:

Yosemite National Park Website
Yosemite Valley Shuttle System
Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall Trail Guide
Yosemite Bug (Great Hostel Outside of Yosemite)

Stuffs to pack for 3-day car camping in summer time:

– Tent
– Sleeping Bag
– Sleeping Pad
– Butane Stove
– Small cooking set (Pot, Plate, Utensils, Cup)
– Flashlight (Headlight)
– Knife
– Mosquito Repellant
– Sunscreen
– Space blanket (In case the temperature drops)
– Lots of water
– Hat
– Layers of cloth
– Multipurpose Soap
– Hiking sticks (If you have one)
– Water Filter (If you have one)
– Alcohol for consumption and laughter

*While food supplies are obviously important, most items can be bought at shops in Yosemite National Parks.

Sell my old clothes, I’m off to heaven: good season for unforgettable getaway

Money and time are adamant harnesses for many people’s brilliant ideas that drag them back down to reality at its conception stage. That enormous look on bank statement never allows the “perfect season” to arrive for budget conscious travelers.


 

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058_smPhotographs from Barcelona, Spain (Winter 2011)


 

If you look at it though, time and money is only a temporary expenditure that you can eventually earn back if you work hard enough, whereas missed opportunity to be in the moment of traveling is something that you can never take back. You simply have no one but yourself to blame for not doing it.


 

015_smPhotograph from Zaragoza, Spain (Winter 2011)


Let me tell you this — traveling the world is soulful investment of your time to enrich your life that not only teaches you how far you can go physically but also lead you closer to the definition of “who you are”.

So don’t fret yet, there is a way to make awesome travel itinerary without spending too much and within short time frame.
I am writing this post today to share some of my suggestion that hopefully encourage you to realize the dream.


 

029_smPhotograph from Madrid, Spain (Winter 2011)


Preparing for your travel of lifetime.

There is something you can start today to save money for traveling.
For example, when I was planning for travel to Spain three years ago I cancelled all the unused subscriptions like expensive gym membership, cable that I never used, sold stuffs on eBay and Craigslist, and switched my mobile plan to something cheaper. It was the best way to start saving bucks for travel.

When you start to think about saving for travel, your focus should really be on eliminating the excess. Learn to live only with your need is good starting point. The toughest part in modern life is to recognize excess and work against them. Think twice before you proceed to the register — that extra dollar saving may be able to put you on nice cruise around Mont Saint-Michel!


 

044_Ride onto CivilizationPhotograph from Edinburgh, Scotland (Spring 2013)


 

Let me tell you some stories.

In last 18 months, I’ve moved from Los Angeles to London then to San Francisco. This involved many new encounters and separation which certainly was both bitter and sweet at times. Essentially, I’ve made many friends at every short stop and parted my way to the next stop; and through each person I started to learn more about myself. Direction of my life was constantly shifting during this 18 months, and transition from city to city helped to develop my traveler mindset. Now here I am, an agile-ready suitcase tripper that can fly around the world with minimal belongings (my current possession can easily be packed into 3 suitcases and ready to go!).

When I moved from LA to London, selling my record collection was the hardest thing to do. After contemplating for few weeks whether I should buy another big box to ship to London, I finally decided to drop off my boxes of LPs to Record Surplus.
I had many awesome records in my collection and $100 in return was like shit, but it had to happen. Hopefully some cool audiophile picked up that Tom Waits “Rain Dog” LP and My Bloody Valentine “Isn’t Anything” LP for good price. After all, selling art is a positive cause to keep the circulation going. Also this decision saved me much money and space in my luggage.

Personal items like journals and photo albums are obviously something that you don’t want to throw away because they are the records of your life. These are the ones that I always struggle to get rid of. I sent 3 boxes worth of personal works such as writings, film reels, and photo negatives to my parents’ house in Guam prior to departure from the US. If you are planning to travel abroad for long time and come back to the country eventually, the personal storage is also legitimate option for temporary holding. Do whatever you can to cut down your possession to minimal before leaving the country.
This is what I’ve learned.


 

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031_AutumnPhotographs from London, England (Fall 2012)


Once the most personal items are kept at safe place everything else like clothes, car, books, DVDs, furniture, and other items are relatively easy to get rid of. Try not to think too hard about it and just take your stuffs to Good Will and post on Craigslist and do yard sale.

Well, these suggestions are tied to my unique travel condition so it’s not 100% applicable for short term traveling, but you get the point.
If you have it and don’t need it why not sell it to make extra bucks?


 

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Art11Photographs from Venice Beach, CA (Fall 2011)


 

Setting aside little amount of money to account for your travel fund is smartest way to pace yourself to goal. For example, most traveling from California region in USA to Europe costs around $1000 for round-trip flight throughout the year. Skyscanner is great source for finding cheapest air fare.
If you are smart about choosing inexpensive accommodation (I will touch on this later), it is possible to have amazing time in Spain in three different cities Madrid, Barcelona, and Zaragoza with just little over $1000. When I went to Spain for Christmas three years ago, I had budget of $2000 for 7-10 days (including flight and accommodation). So this is definitely do-able.
If you are planning to travel about 6-months from now, go start calculating your budget starting TODAY and search for flights. Generally, the flight fare locks about 46 days before the departure so keep your eyes out for great deal around that time.
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As I have been emphasizing throughout my travel postings, short term travel can cost more than long term one.
Why? Because with short term travel you will have to compromise some of the following:

1. Transportation – Plane (faster, expensive) vs. Train (slower, cheaper)
2. Food (fine dining to taste the best of the city…might as well)
3. Accommodation (comfortable private room vs. shitty 2-star dorm where you can hardly catch good night sleep)
4. Admission to major tourist attractions (expedited service which can cost additional fee)

In this post, I will highlight some basic tips that can help you build pretty awesome itinerary regardless of your travel time frame.

008Photograph from Regent Hostel in Paris, France.


 

Find affordable option for your stay.

Affordable, but also comfortable. You will burn lots of energy in short term traveling especially if you are active traveler like myself and wanting to see as much as possible in available time. You have to keep your feet moving! So some comfortable bedding with less distraction from sleep is preferable to rest up your tired body.
Search for hostel/guesthouses on Hostelworld.com or Hostel.com. Wherever your destination will be, there is definitely affordable housing option for low budget traveling. You just need to look at the right place 🙂

For peaceful and comfortable hostel experience (unlike how it’s been stigmatized by Eli Roth’s film of the same title) make sure to read all the reviews and pay particular attention to considerable noise-level of the facility. I generally avoid choosing hostels with negative reviews on loudness and dismiss it from my list if I see remark as “party hostel”. These hostels exist in almost every backpacker destination.
Obviously, if party is your scene, go for it and book it by all means; but remember there are always fascinating adventures waiting in the city. So you don’t need to party at the hostel 🙂
For beginners, Hostel International is probably the most reliable option. This company hosts numerous travelers every day all around the world. I stayed at their hostels in Chicago, Monterey, and San Francisco and the facilities and bedding was all perfect. Definitely recommended as alternative to rather expensive hotel stays.

 


022Hands down. Best thing to do food wise in Spain is tapas. With 5 caña (half pint beer) you can enjoy complimentary tapas plates like tortilla!

007Had pint of pilsner and brat wurst with locals at pub that I stumbled upon in Frankfurt, Germany.


Eat wisely.

Same goes with eating and drinking. Since you are in different country you might as well try something new at every destination.
While guidebook is easiest answer to find what to eat in the city, it is also complacent and you can end up spending so much.
Meet the locals and seek their recommendation. Asking workers at local produce or meat market  is actually good way to find the restaurants that are less commercialized than guidebooks.
Yelp is another good way to quickly search for cafe and indie bars although it kind of takes away that excitement to discover cool dig by yourself.


003_smFree walking tour operated by staffs at Way Hostel Madrid. This tour is designed to see many landmarks in Madrid by foot and also mingle with fellow travelers.

139I got hooked up with free Ceine river cruise tour by a friend that I made in Paris. Be who you are and connect with people! That’s the number 1 rule on traveling solo.

034_InLondonFree walking tour in London. In conjunction of local organization and Meetup.com


 

You don’t have to spend dime for AWESOME tours.

There are many tour that you can participate for completely free.
It’s good idea to choose hostel based on availability of staff operated tours. These tours are usually free, and designed to give you glances of what the city has to offer and also connect with fellow travelers.
Although free tours may not be as thorough as the ones you can join for more money, it gives you good perspective of the city. I usually join these free tours as soon as I arrive the hostel to get used to the geography and grasp the knowledge of neighborhood before starting the adventure. Meeting other travelers is obviously another perks of these free tours as I’ve been continuously insisting on my other posts. If you are planning to stay in the city for while, Meetup.com is also good resource to join the events organized by locals.


 

014_Hikers in SnowfallCotswolds hike in England.
Meetup event that was independently organized by hikers group and open to anyone with very small organization fee (20 pounds).
One full day spent active and I made some friends!

024_smPinnacles National Park in California.
Another Meetup hike that was completely free and group members also actively helped the car-less participants with transportation.


 

So why are you still contemplating whether should or should not do that big dream travel of yours? Freedom is non-tameable beast and you will loose it before you know it. Hopefully, some of the tips above can help you make up your mind. After all, traveling is opportunity to cultivate your soul. As many have said it before, you will NEVER regret for traveling and it will enrich your life after you return.

You might as well do it while it’s on your mind 🙂


 

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Shots GODPhotographs from Santa Monica, CA (Fall 2011)


 

Please leave a comment if you liked my post and share it with your friends going on big travel.

 

 

Stop the clock. Turn your heels. Look beyond the stones. Siem Reap, Cambodia: Chapter.1

Cambodia is a neighboring country to Thailand. With merely an hour flight from Bangkok you can touch down on the ancient Angkor capital of Siem Reap.

Most travelers with passport outside of Southeast Asia require VISA to visit Cambodia – rest assured this process is very simple and easy so make sure you get one before embarking on journey to the wonderful Cambodia!
The best way to apply for VISA is online here. Application fee is $28 (As of January 2014) and it takes about 3 days to get the copy through email. Make sure to carry 2 printout copies during the traveling — 1 to give out to custom upon arrival and the other one to keep for record.

Once you get in… let your free-spirit rise in the mystic Angkor capital!

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If Thailand was somewhat spiritual journey to tread the mystical paths of exotic kingdom; my experience in Cambodia was inexplicable without mentioning the rare interaction I had with locals living in close-knit  community and awkwardly modernized cities built on undeniably tragic history.

Siem Reap, my first destination in Cambodia, is a city still breathing the air of ancient times. The whole city is flat on the land and gigantic Angkor Archeological Park in the north is full of UNESCO world heritages. The city is surrounded by temple ruins and stampede of tourists around the “7th Wonder of the World” — Angkor Wat — day and night.
Siem Reap has not been the quietest cities for a while now.

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Neak Pean temple in the middle of lake. One of the most intriguing structures inside the Angkor Archeological Park.

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A boardwalk that leads to Neak Pean — an island temple.

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Beautiful relief on the walls of Ta Saom Temple.

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Boy waiting for his father at the Angkor Wat.

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A girl selling souvenirs to tourists at temples. I never seen more value in 1 US dollar than how people in Cambodia treated them. $1 is so valuable and it can get you far. Sad truth is, money these kids make goes directly to their adults’ hands which will not be used for purpose of their life support.

There are many organizations within and outside of Cambodia to promote educational support and relief care for these poor children. There are many restaurants and shops in Siem Reap contributing portion of their sales to child protection and school education. You may find these information on your guidebook or learn from hotel concierge.

As a visitor, it is our responsibilities to determine the best ways to give back to this beautiful country and people while enjoying the most authentic food and cultural experiences.
That’s one step of becoming good traveler 🙂

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Children selling fruits at the Western gate of Preah Khan Temple.

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Cambodian land mine victims playing music at the entrance of Preah Khan. They also sold CDs which was awesome for souvenirs.


When I first arrived in Siem Reap Airport, I was lucky enough to meet very friendly tuk-tuk driver who spoke English.

His name was Mr. Ban. I called him Ban-san because apparently that’s how his old friend from Japan called him 🙂
Ban-san offered to show me around the important sites in Siem Reap over 3 days of stay.

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^Ban-san. Awesome tour guide during the day and respectable family man at night. He lives with his wife and four kids right outside of Siem Reap.

There are MANY ruins in Siem Reap so it is not possible to visit everything in one swoop of ride. This is why my meeting with Ban-san was super fortunate as he essentially introduced me to core “essentials” in such short amount of time with his great geographical knowledge.
One full day or two days can only be good estimate to scratch the surface of this ancient city, but you can do many things if you have rough road map to play around with.

What I highly recommend, and have done during my stay was spend one full day in Angkor area starting early (I’m talking 5am early) to kick off the day with epic sunrise at Angkor Wat; and visit the major temples in Angkor park taking the big circuit route. In the afternoon, go visit Chong Kneas’ floating village and take a boat ride out to Tonlé Sap Lake for unbeatable view.

If the itinerary permits, do the day trips to distant temples on the following day and visit grandiose waterfall in mountains the day after that.

Here are some great temples around the Angkor Wat:



Ta Saom

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Pondering tranquility at Ta Saom.

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Reliefs of Ta Saom.

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Iconic stone gate and towering tree at Ta Saom.


Angkor Wat

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Day or night, Angkor Wat is the busiest temples in Cambodia.
So you won’t ever feel lonely even if you’re a solo traveler.

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Entering Angkor Wat.

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Weathering relief inside the Angkor Wat structure.

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Joni Mitchell of Angkor Wat.

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Gazing vanishing point from the top of Angkor Wat.

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Getting really up close to sculptures inside the Angkor Wat.

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A very detailed relief on the pillar of Angkor Wat.

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Coming down.

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Angkor Wat on the water.

Pssst… Sunrise and sunset hours are the holiest of holy moments in Angkor:



Phnom Bakheng

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Phnom Bakheng is one of the best known epic sunset spots in Angkor.
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Farmer and calves in the field near the Phnom Bekheng Temple.

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Dangling feet from the edge of Phnom Bekheng.

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Sunrise at Angkor Wat – Wake up early to catch the most ethereal moment in Angkor.

Angkor Wat is everything? WRONG! There are so many breathtaking places to see around Angkor capital.
Do not miss these:


Angkor Thom

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Angkor Thom is the old Khmer capital city surrounded by stone walls and stony-faced statues.

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Could you resist these glares?

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What? How did you get up there? I’m climbing up the walls…

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Made it to the top. This is the head-shaped statues that look over the incoming traffic through the gate of Angkor Thom.

 


Baphuon

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A woman selling burning incense at Baphuon.

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Walkway in Baphuon.

 


Ta Prohm

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Ta Prohm a.k.a. Tomb Raider Temple (insert Angelina Jolie quote here)

 


Preah Khan

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Intricately designed relief on the wall of Preah Khan.

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Preah Khan is easily my favorite of all Angkor temples.
This place is pretty much like labyrinth that my 6-year old self would have dreamt about exploring after school.
The deeper you go wander into the temple the more interesting faces you will discover. Preah Khan has both architectural beauty and enormous trees that are coexisting in awkward yet beautiful balance.

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Feels like wandering into the dungeons of Legend of Zelda and Dragon Quest (Dragon Warriors)

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Torched by the sun.

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This is a Khmer student that I met at Preah Khan. He studies English at school and spends most of free time at Preah Khan giving tours and taking pictures for small tips. Really nice guy. He even introduced me to some secret attraction of the temple (candle like structure in the above picture for example).

The tree you can see behind him was so enormous it literally took over one side of the east entrance.

 

So many temples, but that’s not the only face of Siem Reap:



Chong Kneas Floating Village

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Chong Kneas is village built above river flowing to Tonlé Sap Lake.

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Legs stripped because of dry season.

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Fisher family in Chong Kneas.

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Boat hand.

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Short stop at lakeside restaurant.

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I asked boat hand to stop the boat for a moment and explored the village.

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Completely different view of village seen from the inland.

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So many people breathing and living in this tiny village.


Just like many other travelers will tell you, it is IMPOSSIBLE to see everything and experience everything in few days but you can try and make the best out of it — Hanging out with locals is definitely the way to go. All of the photos above were captured amidst my real time traveling.

While there are numerous amazing temples to visit in Siem Reap, what truly moved me was people in Cambodia that live every day with bright smiles. Hands down, meeting with these lovely people are what made this travel something special 🙂

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Friends of Siem Reap.

In the next chapter I will continue on my journey in Siem Reap.
Please look forward to more photos from great temples and lovely people of Cambodia 🙂

Thanks for reading!