Backpacking: The Enchantments

Deep within Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest spreads the arms of woodsy and rocky trail that lead the travelers up and beyond the mountains of Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Here the ways of nature take over the landscape in full force. Our hiking adventure into Snow Zone started with steep elevation gain to the high mountains. Trail runs next to Snow Creek and provided us plentiful water resource to filter and replenish hydration reservoirs. It was quite strenuous first 5 miles or so until we started to see the signs of crystal clear Alpine Lakes revealing their majestic appearance.

We entered the wilderness from eastern side through Snow Zone; we had Snow Zone permit to camp in this area and continued to Core Enchantment Zone the following days for day hike activities.

First drastic change in sight opened up in front of our eyes when we approached Nada Lake (5 1/2 mi. from the parking lot). Despite its rather arid sounding name, Nada Lake’s big body of water was kind of sneak preview to Narnian-like Alpine Lakes waiting ahead on our path.

After passing Nada Lake another ascending trail took us to the last stretch of switchbacks to approach Snow Lakes. This approximately one mile ascension was quite challenging with pure elevation gain on granite fragments. About half way on the ascension we were greeted by gushing sound of Snow Creek water.

Gushing water greeted us about halfway on the switchbacks leading up to Snow Lakes.

Snow Lakes is ocean-like lake that is situated at the bottom of mountain basin populated only by backpacking campers who obtained permits to enter the sanctuary of nature’s wonder. Sun was going down and we were ready to stake our tents and fill our hungry stomachs with satisfying meal. We weaved around the lake and found the empty campsite conveniently located at the trail entrance to Core Enchantment Zone.

Snow Lakes not only provided easy access to flowing water supply but it also offered beautiful sight of sunrise and sunset from outside our tents. Early August weather invited many mosquitoes to campsites so I highly recommend packing enough supply of insecticide as well as wear thick coat of sunscreen to protect your skins from the sun. There are many campsites around Snow Lakes area, so even if you arrive late for camping I would recommend traveling deeper into the trail as you will surely find some decent home. Campsites in this area are generally shaded and in close proximity to designated toilets (NOTE: it’s one of those toilets with just seat and wooden lid, there is no shelter).

Sunrise from Snow Lakes campsite.

Core Enchantment Zone

Day 2 we woke up around 6am and enjoyed breakfast with perfect view of rising sun. Today we are scrambling up the mountainous path to unveil the secret of Washington’s well preserved Alpine Lakes that is The Enchantments. Switching heavy 65L backpack load to daypack, we left Snow Lakes to get to the first vantage point to still silent Alpine Lakes.

The way from Snow Lakes to Lake Viviane was near vertical scramble up on wall like sheets of granite. Make sure you are equipped with good hiking sticks as strenuous ascension will surely make your ankles prone to fall into gashes of loose rocks. Reward for this challenging trek is gorgeous vista of Snow Lakes below accompanied by soothing music of creek streams. By the time you reach the top for Lake Viviane you will start to feel the drastic change in vegetation and perhaps encounter the first sign of wildlife. Welcome to mountain goats haven.

Once you reach Lake Viviane you know you are in the Core Enchantment Zone. There are numbers of crystal clear lakes that keep your eyes and camera busy scanning through endless sight of beauty. After crossing the creek by way of fallen tree, the trail continues around and up the rocks overlooking Lake Viviane to the next big Alpine Lake, Leprechaun Lake. This part of trek is tricky to navigate as the only trail marker is pile of stones left by the explorers before us. If you have GPS devise or trail map acquired at the ranger station, you can attempt maneuver off-trail to reach Leprechaun Lake.

Leprechaun Lake was the first lake that we saw with remains of icy snows decorating the surrounding mountains. Flowers of magenta and lavender blue bloom everywhere and added hues to serene sawtooth mountains mirrored on the lake surfaces. We spent hours relaxing by the lake, ponder in thoughts, and maneuvered along the rim of crystal clear lakes to reach the waterfall and Perfection Lake deeper into The Enchantments.

After passing Perfection Lake the trail took us beyond the snow mountains to Inspiration Lake, small chains of lakes, and finally to Isolation Lake. Inspiration Lake has quickly become my favorite lake and I enjoyed the tranquility of deep blue water. We settled the backpacks and refilled the water reservoir by Inspiration Lake before continuing on steep snow trail.

Inspiration Lake

Going up from Inspiration Lake involved continuous scramble along rugged rocks covered in snow. This part of trek was particularly challenging without hiking sticks (I had to fold hiking sticks occasionally to take pictures). I would recommend following the path on your left hand side that is exposed or least snowy; this will help you prevent mishaps of stepping on fragile snow that merely sit on top of stone crevices.

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Made it to the top of mountain by way of icy trail. Taking in the gorgeous view of Inspiration Lake and the world below.

From the top of mountain you can look down on Inspiration Lake and unfurling view of The Enchantments. We continued our journey through chains of Alpine Lakes and passed several campsites populated by lucky campers who got the permits to stay in this truly enchanting wilderness. The trail eventually took us to Isolation Lake–the lake that is engulfed by massive impressive glaciers.

The sun was on its course to set so we turned our way to Snow Lakes. On the way back, I’ve encountered a couple of mountain goats feeding on soft green in front of gorgeous backdrop of Alpine Mountains. Every moment of trek in The Enchantments was filled with small surprises and it was amazing.

Prusik Peak

On the third day we returned to Core Enchantment Zone through the same trail we took the last day until Leprechaun Lake and diverged to Prusik Pass at Perfection Lake. Prusik Pass started mostly grassy and lush with greens for the first part of the hike and gradually transformed into snow mountain.

It was approximately one mile trail that took us to the summit of Prusik Peak. This short elevation boost trek lifted us above 2,200 ft and offered some of the best views of The Enchantments. From the top of Prusik Peak we saw Shield Lake in the distance and decided to scramble our ways down midway before finding it rather difficult to complete in available daylight. We altered the plan and returned to Snow Lakes before sunset to move our night’s camp near Nada Lake.

After Prusik Peak we had lunch by Perfection Lake. Coincidentally, it was also lunch time for this fuzzy fella. We had lunch together.

Although we passed through the same Alpine Lakes four times in two days (two out and back trips) the experience never got old. I saw the same sawtooth mountains and splash of flowing creeks both days and found comfort in revisiting these postcard perfect scenery. It was like finding home in distant planet; something that I always feel in remote places like Andes Mountains and Lost Coast. Being in The Enchantments was truly transcending experience for worn soul.

Once we reached our now familiar home by Snow Lakes I realized my 4 days excursion to the core of The Enchantments is coming close to an end. We dismantled our campsite and packed our gears to migrate to Nada Lake campsite further down the Snow Creek.
Nada Lake campsite was optimal campsite for our last night in Snow Zone as we have to hike out the next morning and wanted to burn as much mileage before dark.

Feeling enchanted?

Here’s the video digest of Backpacking: The Enchantments:

The Enchantments was definitely one of the most breathtaking backpacking camping destinations that I have ever visited.
In the core of The Enchantments you will witness the endless sight of sawtooth mountains and everlasting signs of frost reflected upon crystal clear Alpine Lakes. Wild life such as mountain goats and squirrels roam freely in this place just the way they are.

If you ever have an opportunity to obtain overnight camping permit may the blessings of this magnificent place endear you with your visit!

Happy trails!

-Kosuke

[Summary of The Enchantments backpacking in this post]

Day.1 – Started from trailhead around noon to Snow Lakes (Camped by Snow Lakes within Snow Zone per permit).

Day.2 – Entered Core Enchantment Zone from Snow Lakes and visited Lake Viviane, Leprechaun Lake, Perfection Lake, Inspiration Lake, and Isolation Lake. Returned to Snow Lakes campsite.

Day.3 – Entered Core Enchantment Zone from Snow Lake and approached Perfection Lake, entered Prusik Pass to Prusik Pass. Returned to Snow Lakes and continued down to Nada Lake campsite.

Day.4 – Started from Nada Lake around 6am and returned to the cars by 10am.

The Enchantments permit area and detail can be found on Recreation.gov.

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