Over eleven thousand feet above sea level – breath will be cut short and thighs will burn… as they should.

Cusco, an ancient capitol of Inka Empire, is more than just a gateway to the magnificent Machu Picchu. This is the heart of Peruvian culture and home for some of the most beautiful people you will ever meet in the world. Every face I encountered during my visit to Cusco was unforgettable. I could almost see the appearance of ancient Inka on people’s sculpture like contours.

When my eyes met theirs, I knew there are long stories behind them. I wandered around Cusco by foot as well as on wheels, and at every place I go there was this group of people who tried to sell me souvenirs (as it is in any tourist places). Some are soft sellers while others are quite tenacious. At any rate, the ones with most convincing eyes with shiny glitters got the most nuevo sols out of me. Here in Cusco I ended up with three alpaca wool backpacks.
That’s how powerful the eyes of salesmen in Cusco are.
Fellow budget backpackers, you’ve been warned.

If you go to Cusco for Machu Picchu, you should stay in Cusco for at least two days prior to hike. This way you can properly acclimate to high altitude and even acquire a taste of interesting culture in the Sacred Valley nearby. One day tour to Sacred Valley is pretty common activity and hotels and local tour companies offer this with good price. If you are visiting Peru during relatively low season (such as late November when I went) you should have no problem joining the tour last minute. Hop on the bus and make friends. Go be spontaneous.

Just for the record, I had no pre-arranged tour plan in Cusco as my main purpose of this trip was to hike across Andes Mountain to reach Machu Picchu on 8 days expedition. I simply didn’t have much thought for anything else. However, it turns out my hostel (Atawkama Hostel) was very informative and gave me great advise on day tour and walking tour to keep my feet busy at all time.

Sacred Valley tour that I joined made three major stops in Pisaq, Ollantaytambo, and Chinchero. Sounds like there are many other tours that go to more places in this history rich region. Watch the video below for snippets of Sacred Valley tour that I experienced. It’s not included in the video, but Corikancha museum is another absolute must place to wander while you are in Cusco city center.

My ultimate advise to you about Cusco is this: Be flexible and don’t overload your travel itinerary before you actually get there. There are virtually limitless options on things to do while you are out there. Give yourself a chance to window shop tour agencies once you get in Plaza de Armas located at the tourist hub of Cusco.

It’s still very true though booking plans for Machu Picchu is quite important to do in advance (which I will go deep in my next post). Machu Picchu tour may also be arranged upon arrival, but spots are not guaranteed for full experience such as Inka Trail trek and the other epic hiking options that you should really be doing.

 

Here’s 8 things you do not want to miss in Cusco:

1. Stroll around San Blas (Artist District) and enjoy the colorful streets. Here you can have some great menu (20 sols full course meal) and try out traditional alpaca saltado with pisco sour. After food, go wander up the hilly trails to Cristo blanco (white Christ statue) and see the entire city of Cusco from there.
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2. Hire a horse for tour around Temple of the Moon and Saqsaywaman, one of the impressive Inka sites in the outskirt of Cusco. You can arrange the tour locally at the hotel or tour agency.

   

3. Go on a full day excursion to Sacred Valley. Most tour starts in the morning and ends just in time for dinner. Here are some of the must-see sites that should be included in the tour:
   
   Pisaq
   
   Ollantaytambo
   
   Chinchero
   
   
4. Go to San Pablo Market and stock up on awesome “Machu Picchu” chocolates. Trust me. These chocolates will change your life. If you are adventurous enough go try jugo de frutas (fruits juice) at the stands for mere 5 sols.
5. Visit Corikancha museum and get totally inspired by the ancient Inka history and contemporary art scene of Cusco.
6. Stop by Mushroom Bar in Plaza de Armas for the casual evening of pisco drinking and connect with other travelers.
7. You will probably be advised by many people to visit chocolate museum, but less is known about the newly opened (as of 2015) privately owned coffee factory in the heart of Cusco.
   Museo del Cafe is the place to stop for artisan coffee and healthy breakfast to kick off the day.
8. Google or ask around “Los Cangrejos de Piura” to people and go there. This small cevicheria offers some of the finest pescado experience in the landlocked high mountains. Leche de tigre and truchas (trouts) are among the best taste of Peru.

Next up is the BIG post – Machu Picchu in 8 days. Stay tuned 🙂

 

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ペルーは大雑把にいうと3つの地帯に分かれます。
（１）砂漠を含む太平洋沿いに広がる西部、（２）アンデス山脈によって高い標高に盛り上がっている中部、（３）そしてブラジルのアマゾン河による恩恵を受け、動植物の生態系が非常に豊かな東部。

メキシコシティーを後にして到着したのはそんなペルーの中部、標高3,399mに位置する古代インカ帝国の旧都市クスコです。

ここクスコは昔ながらの土塀作りの軒並みが延々と続き、路傍には手作りのアルパカ綿の織物や土産物を売る女性や、トタン屋根の修理に汗をかく男性、馬や牛を曳く農民の姿があちらこちらに見られました。

子供は小学生高学年から中学生ぐらいの年齢から商売の手伝いを始めるようで、行く先々でアルパカ綿の帽子を観光客と思われる人たちに見せていました。学校や、少年少女の教育施設も市内にいくつかあり、日中は子供たちの笑い声やふざけ合う姿があちこちに見られましたが、夕方には親たちに混じって商売に励んでいました。ペルーの歴史ある観光名所として大きく取り上げられるクスコでは生計を立てるためにアルパカ綿の布や衣類を始めとした土産物の産業がとても重要な役割を果たしている様子でした。

マチュピチュの玄関口として、通過点程度の気分で訪れるスピードトラベラーも割と多いみたいですが、他の観光ガイドブックでもよく言われるように急いでマチュピチュへ向かうことは絶対にお勧めできません。それは高山病になるリスクがとても高いことと、インカ文明の歴史を知る上でクスコ近辺にある「聖なる谷（セイクレッド・バレー）」や「太陽神殿（コリカンチャ）」を素通りにしてはいけないからです。

クスコでは必ず2日から3日の滞在をして、心身ともに風土に慣れてからマチュピチュへ向かいましょう。

特にクスコの町だけに限定したことではないのですが、旅路で出会うペルーの人々の表情一つ一つには古代インカ人の歴史を思わせる深い「彫り」のようなものが窺えました。

そんな人々の表情を追い求めて作ったビデオです。ご覧ください。

セイクレッド・バレー（聖なる谷）と呼ばれるクスコ郊外の土地にはインカ帝国の遺跡が数多存在し、これはマチュピチュに向かう前に是非とも見ておきたいと思い、ホテルを通してツアーの予約をしました。

聖なる谷の３大名所、ピサク、オヤンタイタンボ、チンチェロの集落では生活を営む人々の日常風景に海外から来た冒険家たちが混ざり、まさにインディアナ・ジョーンズのワンシーンのような雰囲気がありました。

天に向かって突き上げるようにそびえ立つオヤンタイタンボ要塞跡の石壁などは圧倒的な迫力があり、冒険家たちの心を奮わせてやまないのですが、そんな素晴らしい文明の面影に今も当時と変わらぬままに生活をする人々の姿が特に胸を打ちました。

マチュピチュの玄関口ということで世界的に有名な観光地となったクスコですが、食に関しても選択肢は豊富で、ピカンテリアと呼ばれる小さな料理店から高級レストランまで様々なグルメが楽しめるのも魅力的でした。

特筆したいのがほとんどのお店で宣伝しているメニュー・スペシャルと呼ばれるセット。なんと20 sols (約690円)程度でメインディッシュにスープかサラダ、運がいい時にはデザートやピスコまで付いてくる本格的なフルコースなのです！ビデオにもちょっと映っていますが、アルパカの肉にオニオンとパプリカを加えて醤油風のソースでソテーしたアルパカ・ソルタードは最高に美味しかったです。

他にもペルー料理の定番セビーチェなども食せるお店等もいくつかあり、川で取れた鱒は新鮮で美味しかったです。ビデオの最後の最後のほうに映っている小さな陶器の鉢に入っている食べ物はleche de tigre（虎のミルク）という魚料理です。ライムなど柑橘類の刺激あるジュースをふんだんに使い、オニオンやペッパー、魚介類のだしを混ぜ合わせたミルク色のスープに魚を浸す独特な味は絶品。これはリマなどの海岸沿いの土地で特に愛されているペルーの国民的料理の一つです。

皆さんも是非、一度はこの素晴らしいクスコの街に足を踏み入れてみてはいかがでしょうか。

次回はマチュピチュ紀行について綴っていきます。