Backpacking: Lost Coast

If there is one backpacking trip that I would do it all over again as if it was for my first time, it’s got to be Lost Coast Trail up in Humboldt County California. Lost Coast is breathtaking 25 miles stretch in King Range Conservation Area that harbors endless beauty of oceanic vegetation and rich aquatic biology untouched by human. Here, nature takes lead on the way for living.

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Lost Coast Trail
(Mattole Beach to Black Sands Beach – 25 mi.)

GPS Coordination to Shelter Cove Trail Parking (End Point): 40.045518, -124.077740
GPS Coordination to Mattole Beach Parking (Start Point):
40.288970, -124.355729
GPS Coordination to Park Office to Acquire Permit, Tide Chart, and Maps: 40.055395, -123.975036 (This coordination may be slightly off, but you will find the office pretty easily on Shelter Cove Road)

Parking/Entrance = Free but requires overnight permits for backpacking (See below).
Permits Required for Overnight Camping: YES. Reserve overnight permits at recreation.gov. Maximum group size per order is (5) and $10 fee is required.

Hiking distance/Time: 25 mi./5-7 hours over 3 to 4 days.
Difficulty: Strenuous.
Best season to hike: May-October.
Essential Carry: Bear canister is always required. This is enforced by park regulation.

Downloadable Maps can be found here.
You can also purchase the waterproof copy at park office for $5.

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Preparation and method of properly getting “Lost” in Lost Coast.

Lost Coast got its name for a reason. It is completely isolated from civilization. To enjoy and preserve the beauty of this unharmed sanctuary please remember the following:

  • Leave no trace rule is enforced: pack in your food disposables and other scented items (including sunscreen and toothpaste) into bear canister. Human waste must be deposited into a ‘hole’ or into the mother ocean.
  • Carpool must be coordinated to get to the trailhead. I will touch on this later.
  • Prepare for harsh and unpredictable weather. Ocean weather is fickle: in the morning you may experience heavy fog and downpour with strong gust, and in the afternoon the beating sun will make you strip off layers. Be prepared.
  • KEEP THE TIDE CHART. Great way to monitor day-to-day tide is doing research in advance through useful database such as this one. At King Range Office, you can also obtain the latest tide chart to navigate your hike through certain impassable areas that become difficult to cross during the high tide hours. Again, I will touch on this later.

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061Getting to the Lost Coast

Typically, Lost Coast Trail hike is done over the course of 3 to 4 days from Mattole Beach at the northern tip of King Range Conservation Area down to Black Sands Beach. This means, hiking is one-way journey. You may park one car at Shelter Cove Parking at the end of Lost Coast Trail then shuttle up to Mattole Beach with another car to start the hike.

Although the distance between end point and start point does not seem that far, drive between two points takes almost 2 hours because of single lane traffic and uneven roads. It is most economical to have two cars to shuttle but it is also possible to book shuttle service through local business to abridge the dreadful 2 hours drive after the hike.

156Watching the tides

Lost Coast’s trail condition is 100% dependent upon tides and has 3 parts along the coast that become impassable during the high tide. These tricky parts of trail are clearly marked on the map so it is definitely worth assessing time it takes you and your group to approach these portion of trail.

It is highly recommended to do tide research in advance and obtain the latest copy of tide chart at King Range Office. Low-tide below 3ft is considered “passable.” If tide is any higher than 3ft you should not take the risk and stay where you are until the tide subsides.

Lost Coast Trail is do-able in 3 days for most experienced backpackers, but giving it additional one day makes this adventure more manageable if the weather condition becomes gnarly.

In this post, I will share my experience with 4 days backpacking.

The beginning of journey

We have decided to start the trip on Friday the week before Memorial Day Weekend. I’ve met up with my friend in San Francisco and drove separately towards Garberville in Humboldt County. We arrived at Garberville around 9:30am and had a delicious breakfast at Woodrose Cafe then proceeded West to approach Shelter Cove Parking situated at the southern end tip of Lost Coast Trail next to Black Sands Beach.

As the park ranger suggested to us, drive form Shelter Cove to Mattole Beach was brutal and slow with lots of uphills and narrow lanes. It took about 2 hours to get to the starting point of our hike. Once we arrived at Mattole Beach we were reasonably sick of driving and ready to get on our hiking boots!

Watch the video documentation of Lost Coast backpacking experience.

Day 1 of 4 ::  Mattole Beach to Cooskie Creek [6 mi.]

Since we have not started the actual hiking until well past 2:30pm in the afternoon, we decided to make an easy 6 miles to Cooskie Creek. Walking on the sands for the most part of first day was a great introduction to our calves who are so used to solid grounds. For most part of hiking we battled the soft sandy coastal trail.

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About 2 miles into the hike we entered the first impassable shore zone just in time during the low tide.

Near Punta Gorda Lighthouse, we saw a colony of elephant seals sunbathing by the shore as well as scene of carnivorous birds feasting on dead seal toddler who was separated from the pack.
Aquatic biology that thrives along the coast was quite amazing and cruel reminder of nature’s survival law.

Sea Lion Gulch appeared to be a very popular Friday night lodge that settles right above the coast on steep cliff before the second impassable shore zone. Great perk of Lost Coast Trail is that you can essentially camp anywhere you like. We decided to proceed little further to set the first night’s camp on top of hill near Cooskie Creek.

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*** LOOK OUT FOR HAT-SHAPED ROCK: There is all-time impassable shore zone after passing Sea Lion Gulch. Here you will need to make a detour over the hill trail. It’s a bit obscure turn, but if you keep your eyes to the left you will see the sign that kind of tells you where the alternative trail starts.


Campsite we’ve settled was quite windy but there was a big shelf of rock that served as perfect “kitchen” space to start a fire and also was within ample distance from tickling creek.

Day 2 of 4 ::  Cooskie Creek to Miller Flat [10 mi.]

Day 2 on Lost Coast started with heavy downpour that drenched the landscape including our backpacks and rain flies. The weather in Lost Coast is so fickle that you definitely appreciate the protection of rainproof outer wears. Not discouraged by the gloom of heavy rainfalls, we packed out items and continued on the hilly path down to Lost Coast Trail.

lost-coast-trail-backpacking-king-range-california-humboldt
Randall Creek was the first water refilling station after we passed the impassable coast zone. Throughout the hike, Sawyer’s water filter served us very well in obtaining fresh creek water. Randall Creek was also decent campsite with fair amount of flat surfaces to pitch the tent. I would recommend staying here over night if you ever have chance to do so!

Spanish Flat is evenly surfaced 2 miles stretch along Lost Coast Trail, which gave us comfortable break from sandy beach trail. The whole area was covered with heavy fog that illustrated mysterious ambiance. It was not until we reached Spanish Creek where we saw few other hiking groups contemplating when the sun will come out as it was promised by the weather forecast days before.

Sky opened up and the sun blessed us hikers in the afternoon.
After passing through Spanish Flat we got back on the beach and continued to Kinsey Creek. I must confess Kinsey Creek was the most memorable and beautiful of creeks that I have witnessed throughout the hike. We don our backpacks and dried rain soaked gears under the scorching sunshine. I took decent half hour nap listening to the sound of flowing creek.
It was serene sense of peace that embodied my soul and body completely.

lost-coast-trail-backpacking-king-range-california-humboldt
Kinsey Creek that flows through lush greenery is a perfect stopping point for hikers to settle the backpacks and relax.

After Kinsey Creek, we continued to Big Creek through cliff side trail and eventually made it to Big Flat after another 4.5 miles of journey. Big Flat and the adjacent Miller Flat were perfect spot for setting up campsite as there are endless supply of driftwood for fire and tall trees for weather shelter. It has been a long day of hike, and this beautiful campsite really paid off our effort at the end.

lost-coast-trail-backpacking-king-range-california-humboldt
Miller Flat served as perfect campsite for Night #2. There are essentially endless supply of woods to keep the campfire grow and fairly flat ground surrounded by trees for weather shelter. Highly recommend to take time to explore the area and find the best spot for camping.

Miller Flat has several ready made shelters that was used by previous hikers so it is quite easy to find the solid ground that will be reasonable to spend the night on. Collect the driftwood while the sun is still out and enjoy the starry night sky with swigs of whiskey.

141Day 3 of 4 :: Miller Flat to Horse Mtn Creek [7 mi.]

It seems many hikers make Miller Flat as the final campsite before completing the hike on the third day. At this point we have already completed about 16 miles of Lost Coast Trail with approximately 9 more left to go. We could have pushed this third day hard and complete the trip before dusk, but instead we decided to stick with the original plan and split the remainder of 9 miles into two days.

Just outside Miller Flat awaits the third and final impassable shore zone. We have timed this part well and decided to do small hike in Rattlesnake Ridge Trail before the tide recedes under 3ft at noon. This hike, however was not as simple as expected since it does not have established passage over the creek and requires lot of water splashing and wet boots to conquer.

At noon, we returned to Miller Flat and continued on Lost Coast Trail towards Horse Mtn Creek. Yet another breathtaking oceanic scenery engulfed my sights throughout the hike. Contrary to previous days’ hike, this part of Lost Coast was filled with lush green and stern coastal cliffs. We took short lunch break at Buck Creek by the cove.

lost-coast-trail-backpacking-king-range-california-humboldt
Horse Mtn Creek was tucked inside the forest. This pile of giant driftwood was a mark for us to spot the entrance to the hidden arbor.

Horse Mtn Creek was Lost Coast’s best kept secret. This creek is rather negligible if you are only focused on the ocean to your right hand side. Following the maps, we spotted a big puddle with pile of giant driftwood in front of green forest. This was the slightest of sign to the entrance to this secretive arbor along the creek.

lost-coast-trail-backpacking-king-range-california-humboldt
Horse Mtn Creek is behind the forest passage seen on the right side.
lost-coast-trail-backpacking-king-range-california-humboldt
Horse Mtn. Creek.
lost-coast-trail-backpacking-king-range-california-humboldt
We set our campsites in this arbor for Night #3.

We established the campsite inside the arbor that was used by previous hikers. Horse Mtn. Creek was tucked inside the forest and offered perfect sanctuary for meditation and relaxation. The sound of flowing water was so soothing and lulled me to deep sleep with good mixture of Maker’s Mark.

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Day 4 of 4 :: Horse Mtn Creek to Black Sands Beach [2 mi.]

We rise early on Day 4 to finish the last 2 miles hike to consummate our Lost Coast Trail experience. It was light hike along the sandy beach with fair amount of fogs that kept me comfortable with my windbreaker. As we get closer to the end point of hike, we saw a ghostly figure of huge driftwood beyond the haze. Step by step our footprints get closer to the crowd of hikers surrounding the said driftwood. I started to realize this driftwood has rather lifelike appearance, something that resembles that of deflated air house, something that feels familiar and fleshy. It was when the smell of expiring life reached my nostrils that I saw the body of recently deceased baby sperm whale.

Life and death seen on Lost Coast was powerful reminder how living outside of our daily norm reveals the strength and ability we hold. This was my longest distance backpacking trip that I have done in lower 48 States thus far, and it was definitely the most beautiful to say the least. If you ever was curious about Lost Coast, I cannot say more than just go and do it – it’s classic.

:: BONUS ::

If you are making slow way down to home in San Francisco or Bay Area, you should definitely stop at some of the attractions on the way. There is a cool woodwork shops along highway 101 that showcase chainsaw sculptures (!) as well as nice souvenirs unique to Mendocino County. Another point of interest is Leggett (pronounce “legit”) which is popular stop for driving through tree; there’s nothing more to it but fun thing to check it out if you never have.

Interested in buying full size version of my photos? Email at kosuke1223@gmail.com for inquiries!

《ペルー漂流記》古代インカのルーツ チチカカ湖でホームステイ2日間!

体積の60%をペルー、40%をボリビアの領土に分けるチチカカ湖は南米の山深い内陸地から眺めるとまるで海のように広大で息を呑むものがあります。南米最大のこの湖は、世界で最も標高の高い地点にある航行可能な古代湖としてギネスブックに名を刻む一大名所であり、インカ帝国の歴史が始まった場所とも言われています。マチュピチュだけがペルーではない、そんな当たり前な事ながら忘れられてしまいがちな旅事情を一掃してくれる魅力にあふれた場所がチチカカ湖なのです。

以前紹介したチョケキラオからマチュピチュまで8日間掛けて制覇するトレッキング!の後、僕が向かったのはクスコ市内のバスターミナル。ホステルからタクシーで、ドライバーと生半可なスペイン語で雑談を交えながらターミナルへ向かい、目的のバスに搭乗したのは夜半過ぎ。チチカカ湖の入り口となっている町プノへ向かいます。

プノに到着したのは翌朝の5時ごろ。早暁の中、物売りやタクシー運転手たちがいきり立つバスターミナル。自分のようなスペイン語の喋れないアジア人などはまるで蜘蛛の巣に掛かった蝶のようなもの。バスの中で仲良くなったおばちゃんに手伝ってもらい、自分のブッキングしたチチカカ湖ツアーのガイドと合流して、とりあえずプノ市内のツアー会社のオフィスまで荷物を預けに行きました。

チチカカ湖のツアーをひとりでブッキングした場合、以下のことを考えておくといいでしょう。

  • ツアーは大体の場合2日間のパッケージになっています。初日は午前9時ごろにスタートし、翌日の午後4時前後に終了します。チチカカ湖ツアーの後、別の町へバス移動する場合はプノのバスターミナルで事前に翌日のバスの時間の確認とチケットを購入しておくといいです。僕の場合はツアーの後、アレキパに向かうことにしたので、プノに到着した際に翌日午後4時半のバスチケットを購入しました。
  • 飛行機でチチカカ湖に訪れる場合、プノの北に位置するフリアカ(Juliaca)に唯一の空港があります。但し、フリアカはプノと比べて治安の悪い町とされているので、宿泊はプノですることをお勧めします。
  • 早朝にスタートするチチカカ湖のツアーはプノのツアー会社のオフィスからワゴン車で港まで送ってもらうことが主なので、不要な荷物はオフィスで預けて、軽装で参加するのがいいでしょう。

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チチカカ湖と伝統ある3つの島々

チチカカ湖は「灰色の豹」という意味を持つのですが、これは地図を広げると湖の形が太った豹のようにみえるということから古代インカにそう呼び伝えられているそうです。古くからインカの人々が産まれた場所と伝わる神聖なこの湖は、豊富な食料と資源を人々の生活に与えてきた、まさに母なる海のような存在なのです。

Puno Port

プノの港からクルーザーに乗りチチカカ湖に出ると、遠目に幾つかの島が見えてきます。僕が参加した2日間のツアーでは、Uros、Amantani、 Taquileという3つの島を巡り、各島の特徴的な伝統と民芸に触れる貴重な体験が出来ました。

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Uros

Urosはプノの港から40分程度で辿り着ける小さな人工島です。藁を編み合わせて作られたブロックは耐久性があり、古くからチチカカ湖の住民たちに生活の場所と移り変わりやすい湖の気候からの安全地帯を提供してきました。現在ではソーラーパネルのような非常にエコな近代技術の導入も見られますが、島民の生活や伝統は今も変わらぬまま続けられています。

024-Uros11Inca incription in Amantani Bienvenidos

Amantani

Urosで伝統的なチチカカ湖の生活の営みに触れた後、クルーザーは更に湖の中心に向かって進みます。3時間ほど大海ばりの波間を掻き分けていくと、第二の目的地Amantani島に到着です。Amantaniの船着場には住民の人々が待ち受け、来島者たちを温かく迎えてくれます。
初日はこの島の家族の家でホームステイすることになりました。

僕がお世話になったのはママ・マリアさんのお宅。息子さんと旦那さんの3人で切り盛りしているアパート風のお宅では、温かいキノアのスープとムニャのお茶で歓迎してくれました。

美味しいスープとちょっとしたティータイムの後は島の広場でグループと待ち合わせ、小高い丘の頂上にあるパチャママ神殿とパチャタタ神殿に向かってハイキングです。

Reaching the summit of Pachamama (Earth Mother).
パチャママ神殿の頂上にて。

パチャママとパチャタタからはチチカカ湖が一望でき、天気のいい日には夕景も美しい写真撮影のベストスポットです。双方の神殿に続く道はインカ特有の繊細な石造りのアーチやフェンスで装飾され、なるほどチチカカ湖からインカ民族が産まれてきたという伝説の所以を感じさせます。

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小高い丘の頂上に静粛に佇むパチャママ神殿、儀式などが無い限りは他に人影もあまり見られない雰囲気でした。代わって登り道の若干険しいパチャタタに続く道には民芸品を売る人も多く、神殿の周りには他の観光客の姿が見られました。

パチャタタの頂上で子供の売るグラナディーヤの実を喫しながら、湖の彼方西方に沈みゆく陽光の陰りを眺めました。

のどかだなあ…

チチカカ湖での2日間を総編集したビデオをどうぞご覧ください!

Amantani Peru Lake Titicaca
ママ・マリアとホストファミリーの皆さんと。

Amantaniで伝統芸能を嗜む

パチャタタ神殿で荘厳な夕焼けを堪能した後はママ・マリアの家に戻りディナーをいただきました。突然降り出した豪雨はここが大きな湖の真ん中にある島だということを思い知らせる強さで、一瞬にして一階のプラザを水浸しにしてしまいました。風もものすごく強く、後ほどに市民会館で予定されているフィエスタもキャンセルになるのでは?といわんばかりの悪天候でしたが、ママ・マリアたちは至って冷静に「そのうち止むから大丈夫」とダイニングルームのロウソクの灯火を片手にムニャのお茶を淹れてくれました。

嵐は一時間ほどで過ぎ、市民会館では予定されていたフィエスタが開催されました。お祭りというよりは小規模な伝統芸能の催しでしたが、チチカカ湖の民謡とホストファミリーを交えた親密なパーティは、「俺、はるばるチチカカ湖のど真ん中まで来ちゃったな~」といった感動を与えてくれました。

Taquile Island Peru Lake Titicaca

Taquile

ツアー二日目。ホストファミリーの皆さんに別れを告げ、今回のツアー最後の目的地であるTaquile島へ向かいます。このTaquileの島は民芸品の縫物がユネスコの文化遺産に指摘されているのですが、すべてが男性の手で作られているというちょっとユニークな島なんですね。Hand-knitting Man(手縫い男)というでかい看板を掲げるお店を見るとなんともマッチョですが、ここで手に入る縫物は帽子からセーターから靴下まで非常に繊細な刺繍が施されていて技術の高さを感じさせます。カンボジアのバンテアイ・スレイ神殿などは女性の小さな手によって彫像されたので細部まで緻密な彫刻ができたと言われていましたが、現代のここTaquileでは手縫い男たちがせっせと女性顔負けなフェミニンな民芸品を作っているというのも面白いなと思いました。

Taquile Island Peru Lake Titicaca

Taquileの縫物にはそれを身にまとう人物の地位や配偶者の有無を示す意味合いを持つらしく、行き交う島の人々の帽子のデザインを観察していると、ある人は議員だったり、ある人は婚活中だったり、様々なドラマが垣間見えて面白いです。ユネスコの文化遺産に登録されるほど濃厚な伝統を残す小さな島がこんなに陸地から離れた広い湖の真ん中にあって、僕のような観光客がその場所まで辿り着けるなんて、現代はなんとも奇妙な世だなと思います。ペルーに訪れる機会があるならば、チチカカ湖と、その中の素敵な島々は絶対に体験していただきたい名所です。

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次回のペルー旅記は白い都市アレキパとコルカ渓谷のトレッキングについて書きます。乞うご期待!